Isn’t this the most wonderful time of the year for story telling? And what more beautiful stories than the ones we’ve lived ourselves, often woven from traditions we’ve been passed on and love to carry on or from the ones we create ourselves as time goes by? And so, for a special Christmas blog post, I have gathered a few of my favourite artists, all incredibly inspiring ladies, some of whom I was happy to have as guests before, to share their favourite Holiday traditions. Reading their heartwarming stories brought back happy childhood memories and rushed in the anticipation of the fête that is always spent in the company of family and friends and that underlies a spirit of joy and warmth and maybe a little magic too. Wishing you a Merry Christmas!
My All Time Favourite Christmas Movies
I usually avoid putting together favourite films lists, simply because there truly are too many that I love and couldn’t possibly choose from. And just because it’s Christmas time, this doesn’t mean we have to see only movies on this subject in December. Some of us prefer the LOTR trilogy, for example, or any other film that gives us pleasure re-watching any given time. However, every year I see so many questionable tops of Christmas movies (no, I’m not a fan of Love Actually), that I’ve decided to make my own, especially that, in this case, my preferences are very well defined. Without further ado, here they are, in random order.
The Bishop’s Wife (1947). A heartwarming tale about an angel, Cary Grant, who helps a bishop, David Niven, who has become distant from his wife, Loretta Young, while trying to raise funds for building a cathedral, find his path and appreciate what he has. Cary is perfect for the part, not overplaying it, using just the right amount of his remarkable charm, resulting in one of his most beguiling roles. Given the subject, the picture might be wrongly typecast as sentimental whimsey, but it subtly refrains from being too morally poignant, taking instead a more human and humorous approach.
It’s a Wonderful Life (1946). Probably one of the most beloved films (not only Christmas films, as, in fact, there was never Frank Capra’s intention for it to be pigeonholed a “Christmas picture”) of all time and a genuine American classic. James Stewart delivers one of his many great performances as a small-town dreamer, who loses and finds his way again. The film is so special because it’s a celebration of the lives and dreams of ordinary citizens, a moving examination of the worth of a single man’s life.
Miracle on 34th Street (1947). The power of faith and belief is stronger than anything else. Susan, superbly played by an eight year old Natalie Wood, knows “the truth” about Santa from her mother. But she learns to believe in miracles, with the help of Kris Kringle (Edmund Gwen), who insists he is Santa Claus. Gwen truly lives his role in a performance that makes you want to believe in Santa again. Or maybe you do?
The Shop Around the Corner (1940). Klara Novak (Margaret Sullavan) and Alfred Kralik (James Stewart) both work in a gift shop and they can’t stand each other, without realising they have been corresponding by mail. But more than the love story itself, I liked the story of the shop, with the daily atmosphere and with every employee leaving his or her print on their work place. Ernst Lubitsch’s humour is brilliant and the director makes great use of the Christmas setting for a subtle commentary on consumerism and salesmanship.
Style in Film: Marlene Dietrich in ‘Morocco’

Morocco was Marlene Dietrich’s first American film. For her role as cabaret singer Amy Jolly she was nominated to the Academy Awards for Best Actress in a Leading Role. The top hat, tuxedo and white bow-tie she wears for her first performance in the film became her signature look. To say that her opening number, when she is dressed up as a man and kisses a woman in the audience, was a provocative scene for 1930, would be an understatement. She wears trousers only in that sequence, but it is Dietrich in that tux that stays with you and I think this is the look most often associated with the image of Marlene Dietrich.
“I’m sincere in my preference for men’s clothes – I do not wear them to be sensational”, she said. “I think I am much more alluring in these clothes.” She was the first Hollywood star to prove the seductive power of a woman in trousers and to wear them in public, defying social norms, pioneering androgynous style, thus revolutionizing and redefining women’s fashion.
There is one unforgettable moment with Marlene during her opening number when she leans back onto the railing separating herself from the tables in the audience. She barely yields any body weight to the rail before swinging one leg over, lightly bringing it to the ground and then swinging the other leg over too. She couldn’t have personified the mystery, sex appeal, detachment and aloof confidence she eludes, had she worn a dress.

By deciding to put her in trousers in the first important act, Josef von Sternberg not only built up the anticipation of the audiences, who were anxious to see Marlene’s legs revealed as they had been made famous in The Blue Angel (1930), also directed by von Sternberg, but this smart move would always link her image to that of an enigmatic persona, who, unlike many other stars, would use subtext to enhance the femme fatale perception of her. The director had seen her wearing a man’s suit and a top hat at a party in Berlin, and it inspired him to use it as a dramatic look for her first musical number in an American film. The result still tantalizes the viewers, more than eight decades later. Wearing men’s attire suited Marlene like a charm, but whether in a man’s suit or a glamorous gown, she exuded sex appeal all her life, never lacking tastefulness.
Women wearing trousers in 1930 was controversial, but in a nightclub in an exotic country like Morocco, it was acceptable. Moreover, the foreign, the unknown and the unexpected have always fascinated the audiences, especially in those times, and the film’s producers knew that the public would be seduced by the exotic location and Marlene’s outlandish look.


Marlene’s costumes were designed by Travis Banton. Dietrich, Banton and von Sternberg were at their first collaboration and all three of them would forge the image of Marlene Dietrich, the icon of style and the epitome of Old Hollywood glamour. Dietrich and Banton worked together on the costumes and the designer was willing to do the sketches over and over again until they were right for what the director had in mind.
The actress makes her Hollywood entrance on the deck of a ship bound for Morocco, in a black day dress with a coat wrapped around her and a hat with a veil, evoking a bit of the mystery her character is enveloped in. After the tuxedo act, as the film progresses, Marlene’s outfits become more and more revealing, like the sleek black evening gown with a sheer neckline and a string of pearls she wears in the dinner scene (photo below), or the sequined fringed show dress, in late 1920s Berlin burlesque style, so short that it shows stockings and suspenders. But although playing up the feminine side, the cool detachment of her in that tuxedo is still echoed even when dressed in black dresses. Only when she wears white, suggestively in the scenes with Tom Brown (played by Gary Cooper), the man she comes to love deeply, her mask seems to come off, giving way to a more vulnerable side.

“Don’t follow it [fashion] blindly into every dark alley. Always remember that you are not a model or mannequin for which the fashion is created.” Marlene Dietrich
Discover our movie stories shop – inspired by the fascinating world of cinema
and by the never-fading beauty of the tangible
photos: stills from the film, except for the last one – photographed by me, from the book Classic Hollywood Style, by Caroline Young | credit: Paramount Pictures
source: Classic Hollywood Style, by Caroline Young
Hitchcock Heroines: Their Influence on Fashion
Afred Hitchcock understood the power of clothes, a central element to many of his classics. Not only were the costumes a tool in his movies, but style was often of the utmost importance. Pencil skirt suits, full skirts and dresses, nipped waists, restrained tailoring, classic totes and clutches, prim hair, gloves of all lengths, the most feminine dresses for the evening, fur stoles and coats as outerwear. But as much as I admire the elegance and timelessness and the bygone glamour, it’s not a style I see myself portraying. It’s something else that fascinates me about his heroines.



Kim Novak in Vertigo, Tippi Hedren in The Birds, Grace Kelly in To Catch A Thief, Dial M for Murder and Rear Window, you can’t think of their characters without thinking of their wardrobes, they are an integral part of who they are. Mysterious and alluring, icy seductive and cool on the outside, and often vulnerable and passionate on the inside. But Hitchcock’s each heroine was a much more complex character than that. And he often used clothes to play with their personality. But it’s not only the clothes, it’s the cinematography, the settings, these are all characters in Hitchcock’s films and they all create a whole, that very specific world that you know it’s perfect for the plot, it couldn’t be any other way. It’s this aura that draws me in. This is the fascination Hitchcock’s films hold for me.



And I think the biggest inspiration for designers when it comes to Hitchcock lies more in the individual characters so well built up, than in the actual clothes. Because doesn’t every collection revolve around a heroine? There is a leading lady starring in each collection.



There was a noir atmosphere at Bottega Veneta. The hair style and icy gaze of some of the models bared a resemblance to Marlene Dietrich in Stage Fright, others were evoking a vulnerable side, reminding me of I Confess. There was even a yellow doctor’s bag, which made me think of Tippi Hedren’s yellow doctor’s bag in Marnie. At Mulberry, one poise in particular, very composed and ladylike, had something undeniably Kim Novak in her confining grey suit in Vertigo. At Dolce & Gabbana, it was the grey tweed suit. The Ports 1961 grey full skirt dress-burgundy leather gloves-set hair look was very Grace Kelly, and at Rochas there was a variety of 50’s style outfits, very Hitchcockian, from full floral skirts and belted cardigans, to midi skirts (very Grace Kelly in Rear Window) and sweaters with fur cuffs or worn with elbow-length leather gloves. And sometimes, as far as I’m concerned, theatrics alone can carry a show.

Discover our movie stories shop – inspired by the fascinating world of cinema
and by the never-fading beauty of the tangible
photos: 1-collage by me | clockwise from top left: Grace Kelly in Rear Window (still captured by me | Paramount Pictures) / Eva Marie Saint in North by Northwest (still captured by me | Metro Goldwyn Mayer) / Marlene Dietrich in Stage Fright (Warner Brothers) / Tippi Hedren in The Birds (still captured by me | Universal Pictures) / Tippi Hedren in The Birds (still captured by me) / Doris Day in The Man Who Knew Too Much (Paramount Pictures) / Grace Kelly in Dial M for Murder (still captured by me | Warner Brothers) / Kim Novak in Vertigo (Paramout Pictures) / Eva Marie Saint in North by Northwest (still captured by me) / 2-Ports 1961 Autumn/Winter 2013, Style.com / 3-Dolce & Gabbana Autumn/Winter 2013, Vogue.com / 4,12,13: Rochas Autumn/Winter 2013, Vogue.com / 5,7,8,9: Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2013, Vogue.com / 6-Mulberry Autumn/Winter 2013, Vogue.com / 10-Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2013, Vogue.com / 11-Lanvin Autumn/Winter 2013, Vogue.com
Style in Film: James Dean in “Rebel without a Cause”

Classic blue jeans, white t-shirt and the red windbreaker: the image that cemented James Dean’s image as cool rebel. He was the one who, with Rebel without a Cause (1955), gave the rebellious teenager an identity. The 1950s were the time when jeans became a wardrobe staple for teenagers. When James Dean put on his Lee jeans, an entire new look was launched. Dressing down became the new revolution.
Nicholas Ray wanted very much to do this movie, and he wanted to do it his way. He wrote the story, and carried out eight months of research to interview hundreds of police officers, judges, youth leaders, juvenile hall authorities and teenage gangs. Ray’s idea was to point out that juvenile delinquency was a function of the family, the kids being raised by parents with values too old-fashioned for their children’s needs. It was a controversial subject and the film was one of the first to bring disaffected youth into the mainstream.
There are many theories on Jim Stark’s red jacket’s origin, but having seen a few of the director’s films and having read a bit about him, I think there is no question that the colour was a conscious decision. Nicholas Ray was one of the directors who paid great importance to colour in his films. For Rebel, he called in a colour consultant and they looked for ideas in old copies of Life magazine. He chose to use primary colours in vivid blocks, creating symbolism through colour and costume. “When you first see Jimmy in his red jacket against his black Merc, it’s not just a pose. It’s a warning, it’s a sign,” the director said. Costume designer Moss Mabry created three copies of the jacket. “Even though it looked simple, it wasn’t,” he said. “The pockets were in just the right place; the collar was just the right size.” The entire look became iconic.
“Red—for life, blood, defiance, daring—unites the characters of Dean, Natalie Wood (her bright-red coat), and Sal Mineo (his one red sock),” Vanity Fair, September 2012. The three of them have found one another, each one of them is trying to survive high school and is longing for someone who can understand what they’re going through.

Costume designer Moss Mabry spent several days at Los Angeles high schools, observing the clothes and styles of teenagers. Nicholas Ray also showed him a picture from Life of a group of college students for inspiration. The wardrobe department aged more than 400 pairs of Levi’s for the extras. “It was learned that high school boys who wear Levi’s always try to dirty the pants first and then have them washed three or four times to get that well-worn look”, said the Warner Brothers press department, and, by the way, that’s how you get that classic, genuine washed-jeans look, not by buying a ready-made pair. James Dean however wore a pair of Lee jeans in the movie.

I wanted to keep the focus on James Dean’s emblematic look, so I added just this one photo of Natalie’s, in a beautiful oversize dusty pink coat. Her character, Judy, would go from a bright red coat and bright red lipstick, representing her trampy, sexually confused persona, in the opening scenes, to toned-down colours, like light pinks and greys and a softer shade of lipstick, as the film progresses –she’s really just a lost child, who feels separated from her family and from society, just like her two new found friends.
Watching the documentary, I learned how desperately she wanted this part as a transition into more adult roles, being tired of playing the kid sister or daughter. She’s one of my favourite actresses, her acting range was fantastic. And there was such a chemistry between James and Natalie on screen. She called Jimmy “a great nonconformist, he wouldn’t do the Hollywood thing, he wouldn’t dress up and do the studio thing”, he wouldn’t play nice with the press – not bad things if you ask me. Natalie also characterised him as moody, poetic and a romantic at heart. I think she was right. And watching Rebel without a Cause again made me realise once more what versatile an actor he was. It was something universal in what he transmitted on screen and I believe therein lies his ongoing image as a hero, as an ideal.
photos: stills from the film captured by me from the Blu-ray remastered edition (which wouldn’t have been possible without the efforts of Martin Scorsese and his Film Foundation, and Gucci) in this James Dean collection
sources: Classic Hollywood Style, by Caroline Young, and the “James Dean Remembered” feature in the collection mentioned above
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