Talking Film Costume: Faye Dunaway in Network

Faye Dunaway's style in Network 1976
 
Network is one of the best media films ever made. Of a sharp and steep humour, the film could not be more timely: a TV network that will, quite literally, do anything to get an audience. The anything is the exploiting of the fall, rise and fall, and the insanity of Howard Beale (Peter Finch), a long-time, old-time news anchorman who is about to get the heave. It states so accurately that all the maneuvers made in the television executive suites are all about making money, while old-fashioned, scrupulous newsmen like Max Schumacher (William Holden) are left out and let go eventually. The entire cast is superb, and Faye Dunaway, Peter Finch and Beatrice Straight all deservedly won an Oscar for their roles, the latter for a performance of only a little over five minutes, the shortest performance to have ever won an Academy Award for acting. Network (1976) was directed by Sidney Lumet, known for the social realism in many of his movies, and written by acclaimed Paddy Chayefsky, who was also awarded an Oscar.
 
Faye Dunaway's style in Network-10

Style in Film Faye Dunaway in Network

Faye Dunaway's costumes in Network

Faye Dunaway's style in Network-11
 
“Does Faye Dunaway really have the skirt taken in in sixteen different places?” reads the chapter on art direction and clothes in Sidney Lumet’s book, Making Movies. “The answer is yes,” he writes. “And she’s right. Nothing can make actors feel more comfortable or uncomfortable than the clothes their characters are wearing. Aside from comfort, however, clothes contribute an enormous amount to the style of the picture.”

Diana Christensen (Faye Dunaway), is a television executive of cunning ambition and lack of feeling, who lives for her career. Faye is so good and so believable in her role, which may be her best. The 70’s working-woman costumes, designed by Theoni V. Aldridge, fit her character like a glove. Clothing was becoming very deconstructed and fluid after the mid-1970s, and the colour palette of Diana’s wardrobe was typical for the decade’s fashions, too: beautiful browns, creams and whites, with a few accents of colour, like burgundy or green, here and there.

Classic camel coat, knee-high camel boots, plain crewneck, turtleneck or shawl-collar sweaters, pussy bow silk blouses (very Yves Saint Laurent), right-below-the-knee pleated or straight-cut skirts, T-strap shoes: these are all part of Diana’s work-wear wardrobe and, in fact, we don’t get to see her wearing any other kind of clothes much (except for a bathrobe, a white gown and a single more casual outfit, composed of white trousers and light yellow t-shirt), which is another way to tell us that even her clothes serve her professional purpose, which is all she is about. In his book, Sidney Lumet recalled his meeting with Faye before she accepted the role: “Crossing the floor of her apartment, before I’d even reached her, I said, ‘I know the first thing you’re going to ask me: Where’s her vulnerability? Don’t ask it. She has none.’ Faye looked shocked. ‘Furthermore, if you try to sneak it in, I’ll get rid of it in the cutting room, so it’ll be wasted effort.’ She paused just a second, then burst out laughing. Ten minutes later I was begging her to do the part. She said yes. She never tried to get sentimental in the part, and she took home an Academy Award.” Faye Dunaway blazes the screen with fire and no sentimentality.
 
Faye Dunaway's style in Network-1

Faye Dunaway's style in Network

Faye Dunaway's style in Network-3

Faye Dunaway's style in Network-4

Faye Dunaway's style in Network-5

Almost every outfit is accented with a wide leather belt in a shade of brown, marking the waist.

 
Faye Dunaway's style in Network-7

A sleek, 1920s style bias cut white silk evening dress, with deep V neck and back, recalling to mind a Madeleine Vionnet gown,
as the designer was the one who introduced the bias cut to the fashion world in the ’20s.

Faye Dunaway's style in Network-8

Faye Dunaway's style in Network-6

Faye Dunaway's style in Network-9
 

Photos: stills from the film, Classiq Journal. Credit: MGM, United Artists

Posted by classiq in Film costume | | 1 Comment

It’s All Good by Gwyneth Paltrow

It's All Good by Gwyneth Paltrow-1
 
To say that It’s All Good: Delicious, Easy Recipes that Will Make You Look Good and Feel Great, by Gwyneth Paltrow and Julia Turshen, is my favourite cook book is not an overstatement. But before getting into details, I’d like to say a few things about my own eating philosophy. More than fifteen years ago, when I was still in high school, I started to develop an interest in healthy food and to change my entire diet. It’s been a gradual process, although from the very beginning I stopped eating red meat, white bread and other products containing white wheat, eliminated shop bought sweats and instead went for home-made desserts made with raw cane sugar. I considered this to be the first step to a more healthy lifestyle.

My parents and my brother quickly adhered to this way of eating as well. My parents had always been the proponents of a balanced diet, consisting mainly of organic fruit and vegetables and other products, like poultry, eggs and dairy largely supplied from the countryside, from my grandparents. But that was the moment when I decided to take it a little further and it was not because it had suddenly become fashionable. Information about healthy living wasn’t yet widely available, the celebrity-culture had not yet taken off, and organic food stores hadn’t started to pop up over night. I somehow reached this decision by myself, by reading a few rare books on the subject (I can’t recall the titles unfortunately) my parents had found and by starting to ask myself some questions. It was because it felt right, and, more importantly, because I noticed how good I felt overall afterwards. Before continuing, I’d like to mention that I don’t give advice, nor will I talk about my complete menu, these are just some basic lines I follow that will help you better understand why I think so highly of this book.
 
It's All Good by Gwyneth Paltrow
 
Classiq-It's All Good by Gwyneth Paltrow-4
 
Over the years I’ve stuck to my eating principles and whenever I met someone new who didn’t know me, I was always confronted with the same question: Why are you on a diet? Some couldn’t understand that this was my way of living, that I ate that way because I chose to (without there being a health problem to be addressed or not even a weight issue, although your body will inevitably become leaner and feel lighter) and that I didn’t feel deprived of anything. And now it’s so rooted in my system that I feel it’s part of my education. The interesting thing is that, when I met my future-to-be husband, he was a healthy foodie himself too. It was very easy to motivate each other to continue to pursue this kind of lifestyle.

I admit that, in the meantime, I’ve started to take into consideration medical reasons as well, which only reinforced my determination to strive to eat as clean as possible. I still haven’t eliminated meat completely, although I rarely eat poultry nowadays, but again, only organic and only because I want to still be able to allow myself this option when I feel like it, every couple of months. However, I have been avoiding to eat certain types of fish for a long time, because the source of its provenience has become a big question mark. I have almost entirely given up coffee, I have drastically cut out on dairies too and I only consume goat’s cheese and yogurt, the only exception being the occasional latte and pancakes. I use only whole grains and I hardly ever use raw cane sugar now, as I’ve already perfected a few sugarless home-made desserts which are so delicious that I can’t understand why one would feel the need to eat something containing sugar when there are so many healthy alternatives you can turn to (in time I’ve also developed an intolerance to very sweet treats).

Of course there are indulgent moments when I can’t resist a bar of chocolate, an ice cream or a piece of birthday cake, the occasional take-away food or lunch/dinner at the restaurant – I always pay attention to what I order though. But my tastes remain simple, and healthy, clean food is my baseline. There is nothing I find more delicious than a simple dish cooked at home, composed of raw ingredients or slightly processed. If I tell you that one of my favourite meals is goat’s cheese and avocado slices on home-made rye bread toast, I think you’ll get the picture.
 
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Classiq-It's All Good by Gwyneth Paltrow_2
 
And now on to It’s All Good. Gwyneth Paltrow’s genuine and sincere story was the first thing I liked from the very beginning. The book is not written by a celebrity, but by a down-to-earth person, who is preoccupied with her and her family’s health and well-being above anything else. As for the food, I love every recipe I’ve tried and cooking tip provided here. They may seem humble for those unfamiliar with this kind of cooking, but, for me, it’s all I could ask for: healthy, easy to make and tasty. I had gotten so used to always changing recipes and substituting ingredients with others I approved of, and the truth is I really enjoy inventing my own dishes, but it feels so good to have an entire book of recipes you can prepare just as they are.

Some may argue that there is nothing extraordinary in these recipes, nothing new they could use. But the thing is that I wasn’t looking for anything complicated or which required the skills of a chef. I just wanted plain, nutritious food, the kind I know it tastes great, the kind that is good for you and your family, the kind that makes a cooking experience feel wonderful and rewarding. There are versions of these recipes I have already been making myself, but I like how having this amazing variety in one place, from breakfast ideas and soups, main courses and snacks, to juices and desserts, makes this book a great culinary reference source. The Frenkies-esque Beet Salad and the Lentil Salad with Mustard and Tomatoes have become favourites in our household, with the Millet Falafel and Chicken Paella close behind. And I am eager to make the Creamy Avocado + Cacao Smoothie and Orange Marmalade these days. I’ve already tried tens of recipes and they are all good.

Furthermore, I like the book visually: Ditte Isager’s beautiful photography that helps get through the message in its pages, and, because I always appreciate natural beauty and personal style when I see it, regardless of the background, the way Gwyneth looks (glowing, without any make-up) and the way she’s dressed (basic, casual, but flawless items). Maybe you are wondering why on earth I would bring up Gwyneth’s dressing style into a discussion about a cook book. It’s because I believe in lifestyle as a whole and that the way you live your life in every single aspect is reflected on your appearance and on the image people have of you. It’s a beautiful book, an invitation to wholesome, meaningful living.
 
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Classiq-It's All Good by Gwyneth Paltrow-7

photos of the book by me | original photography: Ditte Isager

Posted by classiq in Beauty & Beautiful Living, Books | | 9 Comments

Interview: The Awesome Project

The Awesome Project
 
I first came across the unique creations of The Awesome Project, a collaboration between illustrator Mădălina Andronic and graphic designer Claudiu Ștefan, at a designer fair in Bucharest a while ago and I have been following their work ever since. It’s not complicated to understand why: every piece of their handmade porcelain decorative objects, jewellery and homeware collections is truly one of a kind. Furthermore, each one of them tells a story. They are all inspired by Romanian folklore, but staying true to a modern aesthetic at the same time. What’s really amazing is that if I wanted to find familiar figures from my childhood fairy tales transported into the present (because magic plays a part in their designs too, you’ll see), I know that these talented artists could do it. But I think that most of all I like how this project is really an invitation to beautiful living, to make every day special and celebrate the little things, like dinner with your family.

I reached out to Mădălina and Claudiu and they kindly agreed to answer my questions on where this world comes from and the creative process behind it.
 
The Awesome Project-1

porcelain set-The Awesome Project
 
What is the story behind The Awesome Project? How did it all begin?
Officially, The Awesome Project was founded two years ago, but we had it in our minds since university years – we wanted something made entirely by hand and by the two of us, a finished piece to speak about us. We wanted to show the world that you don’t have to be a ceramic artist or a sculptor to work with porcelain and other materials. You just have to come up with a beautiful concept and do your research. We both majored in Art, but we love trying out different techniques and approaches which don’t necessarily match our degrees.

We are passionate about what we do and we’ve learnt everything by ourselves – trial and error. Consistency, obstination, love for everything delicate, beautiful and our Romanian heritage as a source or inspiration made The Awesome Project into what it is today: “an experimental journey of a multidisciplinary creative duo through the awesome milky-silky world of porcelain, with a touch of Romanian folklore. Our wish is to create heart-to-heart, beautifully adorned decorative objects for individuals and their homes.” We might not be a huge working team (it’s just the two of us), we might not have shops around the world, but we are pouring our hearts and souls into every piece we make and people around the world become more and more interested in our work.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?
Like we said before, The Awesome Project makes ‘porcelain with Romanian touch’. We find our inspiration in old traditional textiles, rugs, decorations and objects, but also in modern shapes and visuals. We are not creating ‘the new-old piece’, we are interested in making contemporary porcelain objects with bits and pieces of folk magic – that is why we only took a drop of Romanian traditional motifs and recreated an entirely new graphic system, our own Awesome decoration style, which gives the intimate feeling of something old and enchanted, but still finds its place in a modern environment.
 
The Awesome ProjectThe Awesome Project at work
 
What is your design process like? How do you begin and bring your ideas to life?
Since we are only two people working at every aspect of The Awesome Project (while doing our other graphic and illustration jobs too), we usually present two main collections every year, plus the occasional ‘something-else’. We started with porcelain jewellery, then moved to decorative objects and tableware. We are our own bosses and that’s the beauty of it – we can make whatever we want, whenever we want, as long as it has ‘the awesomeness’ in it. So once we decided on a theme for the collection, we make sketches, choose titles and make trials, then, attack. We are making our porcelain in the old-school, Maiolica technique, so the basic design process for an Awesome Project piece is pretty laborious:
• the clay material is prepared
• the object is shaped by hand
• the object is finished/polished/wet-sanded
• the object is fired for the first time at 800°C (bisque-firing)
• the object is decorated by hand with metallic oxides or pigments
• the object is glazed
• the object is fired for the second time at 1100°-1300° (depending on the type of clay)

Then we usually take good photos of the finished objects, create a nice presentation and make them visible online/offline.
 
porcelain collar-The Awesome Project

porcelain bangle-The Awesome Project
 
Your tableware collection has a name that sounds more like a fairy tale line: “Table, Lay Yourself!”. Where did this idea come from?
We made it a habit for every collection or series to have a name. Since the folklore is our main source of inspiration and we create magic, delicate pieces, it was only fair that our tableware collection received a fairytale-inspired name – “Table, Lay yourself!” is a well known tale with multiple versions in both Romanian and international literary world, each with its own specific details, but always keeping the idea of a table which magically appears out of nowhere, all set and beautifully loaded.
 
porcelain cups-The Awesome Project

The Awesome Project-porcelain tableware
 
Can you tell me a bit about your latest line, “Winter Blues”, and the collection of little porcelain sculptures, “Blue Bestiary”? Again, I’m intrigued by the name.
“Winter Blues” is a collection of decorative objects for Holidays and winter. We decided to keep everything in blue-ish hues against the milky white of the porcelain, giving the impression of a delicate, melancholic vegetal world frozen under the translucent ice of the glaze. The shapes were simple and dreamy (clouds, fish, birds, balloons, houses), adorned with floral and vegetal motifs, all together creating a beautiful, fragile and airy blue winter. The pieces of the collection included simple hanging decorations and mobiles with handpicked sprigs.

On the other hand, “Blue Bestiary” is a Mădălina Andronic project, a mini-series of porcelain sculptures inspired by the characters in her illustrations, delicious one-of-a-kind creatures living in the enchanted Blue China Land, guarding all sweet dreams and innocent matters. It’s a fragile family of shy and sleepy little beasts, all love, refinement, double-fired porcelain and underglaze decorations – to be continued.
 
Madalina Andronic and The Awesome Project Winter Blues
 
Do you also create personalized items on request?
We do take orders from clients and work on commission, but there are some aspects the clients should be aware of: since we only make one-of-a-kind pieces, we do not make decoration doubles of already sold items. We do not personalize our objects with messages or decorations other than those which truly represent The Awesome Project brand and also, we do not alter the shape or concept of our already launched objects. We love and respect our brand, so we encourage a little bit of respect for one’s concept and hard work. Other than that, people can order anything and everything and even come up with really challenging requests. We are always happy to hear from your!

Is there any new project you are working on at the moment?
Right now we just got back from our winter vacation and the wheels are already starting to move. We are mainly working on a new tableware collection and also flirting with some small-series of beautifully decorated porcelain tiles, for people who love their homes.

You can stay tuned to The Awesome Project on their Tumblr and/or Facebook page. For any enquires, orders or other information, you can drop them a line at weheartawesome[at]gmail[dot]com.

A special thank you to Mădălina and Claudiu for accepting my invitation.
 
photos: courtesy of The Awesome Project

Posted by classiq in Beautiful Bucharest, Interviews | | 9 Comments

Style in Film: Paris Blues

Style in Film-Paris Blues -1961
 
Paris Blues (1961) is a stylish film altogether. Set in Paris, on the sounds of jazz, with a good-looking leading cast and beautiful costumes. Paul Newman is Ram Bowen, a trombone player making his living in a jazz group, while aspiring to make it as a composer. Sidney Poitier is Eddie Cook, also a jazz musician playing in the same band, who has moved to Paris to escape the racism in the US. Two American tourists, Connie Lampson (Diahann Carroll) and Lillian Corning (Joanne Woodward), arrive in Paris for a two-week vacation and it’s not hard to imagine the romantic turn the film takes. But let’s talk about the clothes.
 
Style in Film-Paul Newman and Sidney Poitier-Paris Blues 1961Style in Film-Paul Newman Paris Blues 1961-2

Style in Film-Paul Newman in Paris Blues 1961 -2

Style in Film-Paul Newman in Paris Blues 1961
 
Modern men can take a cue from the two leading actors. Both Paul Newman and Sidney Poitier are impeccably attired, whether they are wearing single-breasted suits, cuff-link shirts and plain ties (in the case of Poitier), polo sweaters or shirts and blazers with slacks (in the case of Newman), with a classic watch as accessory and a Burberry trench coat on top. But what makes it more interesting is that their flawless dressing style is accentuated by their strong personalities. The action takes place in a time when jazz musicians were revered, when they set trends and represented a cultural revolution, not only through their music, but through their style and way of life. Ram and Eddie are well aware of this, of their talent and skill, as well as their outer elegance, which is a reflection of who they are. I think we can take it as one more proof that success is related to dressing well.
 
Style in Film-Paris Blues 1961 1Style in Film-Paris Blues 1961 2
 
The ladies are no less stylish than the men (and this is something I can not say as often as I wished), starting with the Parisienne Marie (Barbara Laage). Dressed in a trench, with a scarf on the head and carrying a basket filled with baguettes, you can not get any more French than that. The rest of her wardrobe is just as simple, seeking effortless chic and demanding good taste.
 
Style in Film-Paris Blues 1961

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Style in Film-Paris Blues 1961-4
 
Then we have Joanne and Diahann. The strange thing is that I couldn’t find the name of the costume designer anywhere. Even if the clothes were shopped for off the racks, like it was obviously the case with the Burberry coats, there must have been a wardrobe supervisor at least. That said, I liked the way the womenswear matched the menswear in terms of simplicity and elegance. And another thing that enhanced the film’s beauty was that Joanne and Diahann’s outfits blended so well with the Parisian atmosphere, making both leading ladies look as if they belonged there. Sheath dresses, skirt suits, pleated skirts, beautiful woolen coats with three-quarter sleeves, trenches, sleeveless turtlenecks, leather gloves, pumps and totes, many of them essential pieces, all of them well established classics.
 
Style in Film-Joanne Woodward and Paul Newman-Paris BluesStyle in Film-Sidney Poitier and Diahann Carroll -Paris BluesStyle in Film-Sidney Poitier-Paris BluesStyle in Film-Paul Newman-Paris Blues 1961

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Style in Film-Paris Blues -1961-6

Style in Film-Joanne Woodward in Paris Blues - 1961-3

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Style in Film-Paris Blues -1 

Discover our movie stories shop – inspired by the fascinating world of cinema
and by the never-fading beauty of the tangible

 

photos: stills from the film, captured by me from this DVD edition

Posted by classiq in Film costume | | 7 Comments

A Story Lately Told, by Anjelica Huston

Anjelica Huston | photo: Rex Pictures

 
One for sorrow
Two for joy
Three for a wedding
Four for a boy
Five for silver
Six for gold
Seven for a story lately told

This traditional children’s nursery rhyme about magpies is how Anjelica Huston begins her book, A Story Lately Told: Coming of Age in London, Ireland and New York. Somehow, it felt like it was preparing us readers for some idyllic place and beguiling tales that usually come along in this kind of a setting. Anjelica does recount a picturesque childhood in Ireland, at the family estate in St. Clerans, County Galway, spent in the company of her mother, Ricki, and her brother, Tony, with only occasional visits of her father, John Huston, often away on film location. I think the book is also a father-daughter story: whether when describing how the house would come alive whenever John Huston was there or any other mention of their many a time turbulent relationship, those depictions of her father often seem to transcend the rest.

Anjelica also tells us about her teenage years in London and her coming of age as a model and young actress in New York, and she does it all with disarming honesty and bluntness about the opportunities her name and status afforded her: “In every generation a flock of pretty girls was released into society, with the help of their mothers, via the pages of the glamour magazines… often they were the progeny of good bloodlines – rich, clever, famous fathers and the beautiful women who married them. I was no exception to this fortunate rule.”

I loved the book just as I was expecting I would. Anjelica’s writing, because she wrote the book herself, is lean and unsentimental (in the good sense), sharing straightforwardly who she is with a fair lack of awareness that her life growing up wasn’t like almost anyone else’s. Her storytelling style is charming in a quirky kind of way, reflecting so well Anjelica Huston’s irreverence, unconventional beauty, wit and sensitivity.

The second part of Huston’s memoir, Watch Me, which covers the Hollywood years, will be published in the autumn of this year. I already can not wait for its release.

Posted by classiq in Books | | 7 Comments