Style in Film: Eva Green in Casino Royale


 
Fifty years ago this October, James Bond began to make movie history. I don’t know about you, but I, regardless of many disappointments, am looking forward to every new Bond movie. So I’ve decided to celebrate Bond’s style here in the journal as well, starting with a Bond girl, the best and certainly the most stylish one in my opinion. Eva Green was perfect for playing the complex character of enigmatic and seductive beauty Vesper Lynd in Casino Royale (she won the BAFTA Rising Star Award for her role) opposite Daniel Craig. She’s the first Bond girl written by Ian Flemming, different from all the others: “she’s the only woman that Bond falls in love with, and she shapes him and she’s going to have a great impact on his life. He’s going to become the Bond that we know, and that makes it interesting,” said Eva Green about her character.
 


 
Casino Royale informed new beginnings on the Bond franchise, from a revised Bond, both physical and sensitive, to the refashion of another key element, the Bond girl, who is becoming more and more an equal to Bond. Vesper Lynd is a much more developed character than many of the Bond girls from the previous films, and throughout the film, she goes through a complete character arc. Her costumes, supervised by Lindy Hemming are a visual representation of the path she is taking emotionally.

We don’t get to meet Vesper until midday through the film. The encounter between 007 and Lynd takes place on the train to Montenegro and her initial costuming consists of a polished black suit with high collar. She is composed and formal, and she reinforces this idea with her second look, a black Alexander McQueen trench coat, light coloured skirt suit and wide black belt. An Algerian Love Knot necklace, designed by Sophie Harley, completes both looks, and it will accompany her throughout much of the film, until a pivotal moment in the story.

In the evening of the poker game, Bond brings Lynd a dark purple Roberto Cavalli dress. He says that she needs to look amazing when she comes down so that all the players will have their eyes on her instead of their cards. “Can you do that for me?,” he asks. “I’ll try,” she answers. Only that, a little later, Bond finds a tuxedo on his bed, which Lynd got for him. It is a tuxedo that fits Bond like a glove, an accomplishment made possible by Vesper’s ability of “sizing” Bond up visually, she mentions. They are both playing their game, and their clothing, in the case of both of them, is part of the game.

When she arrives at the poker game, she is wearing the evening gown – bias cut, plunging neckline, low open back, clinging to her body. In her attractive dress and with her hair long (a much more feminine hair-do than the one she had the first two times we see her), she is a sight to be seen. But instead of entering the room from behind Bond, as she had been instructed by him, so that she would capture the interest and attention of the rest of the players, she enters from the opposite direction so that Bond sees her first. She plants a kiss on him and only then do the other players notice her. She is playing the game all right, but she is playing it by her own rules. So the dress, as alluring as it may be, plays another role, revealing its wearer’s personality and strength of character. Moreover, later on, after the fight and killing of their attacker, Obanno, take an emotional toll on Vesper and she is shown in the shower with the water running over her, the dress serves as a cover up. The dark purple colour fades off, seemingly becoming even darker, and in no way does it distract the viewer’s attention from the scene, keeping the focus on the psychological effects that the recent actions had on the character. On the contrary, Bond is wearing a white shirt, which becomes transparent when wet, shifting the visual attention to him.
 


 
The poker game is resumed the following evening, and this time Lynd appears in a black Versace gown with a low neckline and wide straps criss-crossed on the open back. She is however not wearing her hair loose anymore, but intricately made up. She is composed and formal again, despite the alluring dress. Later on, when she saves Bond’s life, it’s clear that her skills as a viable partner to Bond can not be contested.
 


 
The rest of her outfits include a mariniere top (to which she wears a pair of Versace sunglasses), a knee-length ladylike green dress and a most suggestive red wrap dress that she wears in her final scene. All three looks are a departure from the businesslike aesthetic of her former costumes, but especially so the red dress (when the omnipresent necklace from around her neck finally comes off)(her hair loose again), a sign of the new-found love and freedom. The clothes however never take center role, they only complete the character and help the viewer see beyond the surface.

Vesper Lynd is the ultimate Bond woman: beautiful, sophisticated, clever, mysterious, as complex as it gets, and her wardrobe is the only Bond girl wardrobe elegant and elevated enough to stand up to James Bond’s, a sign of the importance she plays in his life: they are a team.
 


 

photos: film stills captured by me, production credits
sources: Bond Lifestyle and Eva Green Web / quote by Eva Green

Posted by classiq in Film costume | | 17 Comments

Style in Film: Meryl Streep in ‘Out of Africa’

One of the great performances in Out of Africa is provided by the costumes. They effortlessly punctuate the stages in the heroine’s life, beautifully guiding us through her African adventure. “The costumes in Out of Africa had quite an impact on fashion. It was as though the fashion world was ready for the styles of the film; the costumes just caught something that was in the air”, costume designer Milena Canonero said.

In a 1986 Los Angeles Times article, Canonero revealed that she enjoyed working in the period of the early 1900s, because, unlike the Edwardian and Victorian periods or earlier, the clothes aren’t “costumey”, they could be adapted and worn today. Indeed, Meryl Streep’s costumes led to a flow of safari lookalike retail fashion in the late ’80s as a clear result of the influence of this film’s costumes. Designers like Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler also used the style as inspiration for their collections after the film’s release.

Meryl Streep and Robert Redford play the leading parts in Sydney Pollack’s 1985 adaptation of Karen Blixen’s (whose pseudonym was Isak Dinesen) novel by the same name. Streep is Karen Blixen, a wealthy Danish woman who comes to colonial Kenya to get married and ensure a noble title, and Robert Redford plays the role of dashing Denys Finch Hatton, a free-spirited adventurer. The designer says that both actors have “their own styles of wearing the clothes”.

In order to come up with authentic costumes, true to the people and settings, Canonero had a very challenging work, including a meticulous research, which took her from the New York Public Library, to the museums and costume houses of England and Italy, to Blixen’s home in Denmark, immersing herself in her family archives and literary works, including fiction and personal letters, and to Africa, of course, where she consulted with anthropologist Richard Leakey.

Wherever she went, Canonero took along her Nikon — outfitted with a close-up lens for capturing small details — to photograph any visual references she could find and then she compiled her own reference library. She also worked in close collaboration with Stephen Grimes (who won the Oscar for his work as the production designer of the film), who arrived early on location in Kenya and would send her colour copies of his paintings so that she could blend the colours for the sets into her designs. Costumes for the lead characters and other non-Africans were made in London, while those of the local people were made in a workshop she set up in Nairobi.

Her wedding hat, made of white silk with antique embroidery, is the fanciest hat Meryl Streep wears throughout the film. The wedding costume was “very French” according to the designer, who wanted to make more of it than the original costume Karen Blixen had worn at her own wedding, which was very simple according to one of her letters.

The gold pin Meryl is wearing with many of her riding outfits is in fact Karen Blixen’s own, the only item from the author’s own wardrobe Melina Canonero could find and which was lent to the film.

My favourite lace-up paddock boots in camel leather and beige fabric.

“I didn’t copy one single thing, but I got influenced (by Dinesen) when I discovered some great photographs of her riding in duster coats and britches and standing around with two dogs wearing riding boots and safari jackets.” Meryl Streep wears a multitude of safari and riding looks in linen, cotton and drill cloth in shades of white, khaki and brown: khaki costumes and midi skirts, jodhpurs, belted safari jackets (“but double-breasted didn’t suit the shape of Meryl, so we did a different jacket”), crisp, white blouses and shirts, pith helmets and wide-brimmed safari hats, knee-high boots, a style not only suited for the place, but which conveys her adventurous self as well. The clothes project her free-spirited, independent personality.

But her elegant attires also include romantic linens in ivory and white, which suggest her other side: she came to Africa in search of romance as well. Canonero says that 30% of the wardrobe and most of Streep’s hats were original period pieces that she either rented, borrowed or lent from her personal collection.

The way she wears wrapped shawls evokes the local tribes.

When she returns to Africa, Karen takes on a new colour she adds to her safari pale hues: navy. Whether her travel dress, a jacket or this delicate dress in deep navy that she pairs with a tribal motif printed scarf and wooden-beaded necklace. The designer had to convince the local Kikuyu women to make the bone and brass earrings and bangles the heroine wears in the film.

This elephant brooch is my favourite of the many she wears throughout the movie.

“I’m not trying to do anything that affects fashion,” says Canonero. “If the clothes influence fashion, it is because fashion is already there.” One thing is for sure: the costumes in Out of Africa have had a lasting impact on fashion and will continue to serve as inspiration for designers and our wardrobes alike.
 

Discover our movie stories shop – inspired by the fascinating world of cinema
and by the never-fading beauty of the tangible

 

photos: screen stills from the film captured by me; kindly link back to classiq if you would like to use any of these images | production credits
sources: Los Angeles Times, January 3rd, 1986; Sun Sentinel, February 11th, 1986

Posted by classiq in Film costume | | 14 Comments

Talking Film Costume: Audrey Hepburn in “How to Steal a Million”

Few actresses had as much influence on the fashion of the fifties and sixties as Audrey Hepburn. To this very day, the items she popularised decades ago have remained essential to every woman’s wardrobe. Because true style has no age. Richard Avedon was one of the people who advised Audrey Hepburn to emphasise and not hide her distinctive traits like her body (a new, modern model of femininity opposed to the shapely sexiness in vogue at Hollywood at the time), her eye-makeup (created by the Italian Alberto De Rossi), thick eyebrows and her natural brown hair, cut short. “Audrey Hepburn is the most refreshing theatrical talent to appear since the war. Add to this the remarkable distinction which she emanates, and it is no rash judgement to say she is one of the most interesting public embodiments of our new feminine ideal,” commented Cecil Beaton in 1957.

In William Wyler’s 1966 How to Steal a Million, as Nicole Bonnet, the daughter of a master art forger, Audrey plays alongside Peter O’Toole, who she thinks is a society burglar, but is in fact a detective specialised in art fraud. It is a delightful lighthearted comedy, with a handsome couple in the leading roles, and beautiful decors and clothes, of course. Audrey’s wardrobe was designed by Hubert de Givenchy, her lifelong friend and the French designer who invented minimal fashion. His desire was to express a purity of line rather than decoration and a consistent perfection. This very clean, essential but sophisticated form of high fashion perfectly describes Audrey’s clothes in the film – “Givenchy’s dresses are so beautiful and simple, I felt wonderful in them.”
 


 
In her first scene, she wears the iconic helmet hat with Oliver Goldsmith white sunglasses and a cream skirt suit, one of the several streamlined day suits in the film. Audrey sported her new cropped hair-do in How to Steal a Million. The man who created it was the famous Alexandre of Paris, and he named this style “Coupe Infante ’66”.
 


 
One could easily name a few designers who were inspired by Audrey’s amazing pink coat and its cut over the last seasons. The shape recalls to mind one of Givenchy’s singular ideas: the chemise (sack) dress, a shape that he exaggerated in the 1950s, wide at the top and tapered down at the hem. All the coats Audrey is wearing in the film are exquisite. If you wore each and every one today, every single one of them would look not even slightly out-dated.
 

A beautiful wool skirt suit. All the jackets and coats are 3/4 sleeved and the gloves are a must.

 

All the jewellery in the film is by Cartier.

 


 
The small heels were another Audrey Hepburn trademark. She didn’t need high heels (she preferred flat Capezio pumps) to be attractive, as Ralph Lauren commented in 1990: “There are two or three people who the public will never forget for their charm and elegance. Audrey Hepburn is number one.” Audrey was a ballet dancer by training and her “bearing and abandon of movement” owed “a large debt” to that, observed Cecil Beaton. And that’s another reason why she felt so at ease in low heels and ballet flats. “Audrey Hepburn’s stance is a combination of an ultra-fashion plate and a ballet dancer,” Beaton further rounded up his portrait of Audrey. “She can assume almost acrobatic poses, always maintaining an innate elegance in her incredibly lithe torso, long flat waist, tapering fingers and endless legs. With her arms akimbo or behind her back, she habitually places her feet wide apart – one heel dug deep with the tie pointing skywards.”
 

The make-up was once again the creation of Alberto De Rossi.

 


 
The military style coat, in beautiful navy hue, could not be overlooked as part of such a timeless wardrobe. This one and Yves Saint Laurent’s coat worn by Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour are two of the all-time most beautiful military inspired coats.
 

It’s all in the details: fabulous sculpted front pockets and a beautiful orange strap Cartier watch.

 

The hats are another department Audrey’s wardrobe excels in.

 


 
Audrey Hepburn had a unique sense of chic that will never be beaten, and her wardrobe in How to Steal a Million is a reflection of the perfect synergy between Givenchy’s elegant lines and her impeccable taste: it felt like they both designed the clothes. “She had a natural grace, an innate elegance, a dazzling splendor,” Cecil Beaton would conclude.
 

Images: screen stills from the film, courtesy of Classiq Journal. World Wide Productions.
Editorial sources: Cecil Beaton Portraits, by Cecil Beaton. A Matter of Style: Intimate Portraits of 10 Women Who Changed Fashion

Posted by classiq in Film costume | | Comments Off on Talking Film Costume: Audrey Hepburn in “How to Steal a Million”

Jean Renoir’s ‘My Life and My Films’


 
While I was reading Jean Renoir’s My Life and My Films I kept my notebook close by because there is so much beauty, wisdom and wit in Jean Renoir’s words that I often had to stop to write something down. His disarming way of sharing his life, inside and outside the film world is so charming that you don’t want the book to end. His creativity, his passion for his profession, for real filmmaking, for what’s natural, for expressing the common humanity in his characters can not leave you indifferent, whether you are a film lover or not or whether you’ve seen his movies or not. Something else that stays with me is his talent in making you part of his world, in letting you in on the secrets behind the scene and making it all seem so attainable… I think it’s because filmmaking was like a second nature to him. I can not recommend this book highly enough.

“Progress has robbed us of the sometimes clumsy hallmark of the craftsman who made a particular door. In the old days when I went through that doorway I would have a word to say to that craftsman […] Machine-work dulls men’s minds, whereas handicraft ennobles them. A craftsman’s products enrich life. Everything made by hand is like a message from its maker, it contains life.”

Posted by classiq in Books, Film | | 7 Comments

Style in Film: The Talented Mr. Ripley

The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999), four decades apart from Plein soleil, the first adaptation of Patricia Highsmith’s novel, is a classic in its own right. It is a brilliant film and this article is dedicated to the style in The Talented Mr. Ripley as a whole, as I can not separate the film making and the setting from the fashion. Its beauty reminds me to a certain extent of Hitchcock’s To Catch A Thief: set on the Amalfi Coast and the Italian Riviera, and on the French Riviera respectively, in approximately the same period of time.

The cinematography, by John Seale, is truly amazing and the film is so well built, unnoticingly flowing for two hours and twenty minutes, taking us from the beach resorts bathed in sunlight, with the picturesque villas and their light interiors and terraces overlooking the calm and blue seas at the beginning of the movie, to Rome and Venice, when the weather suddenly shifts and we are presented with heavily decorated hotel rooms, in perfect accordance with the succession of events.

And, finally, the clothes. Ann Roth and Gary Jones were the costume designers, who were nominated for an Oscar for their work. So much of the story telling lies in the clothes, which is why I enjoy so much talking about fashion in film. Tom Ripley, brilliantly played by Matt Damon, wears simple, plain attire, which evokes his working class background (we often see him in his worn-out brown corduroy jacket) and which at the same time helps his deceitful character, blending in without being noticed, hoping for an acceptance and making his way into the world of an upper class. And he always wears his glasses, except when he impersonates Dickie.

Tom is completely outshone by the charismatic Dickie Greenleaf (Jude Law is perfect for the role) and becomes infatuated with him, which eventually drives him to extreme actions. Dickie’s clothes describe so well his self-confidence and his leisury and luxurious lifestyle. Knitted polo shirts, white linen trousers, linen blazers, colourful printed shorts and espadrilles, the perfect summer wardrobe, but one of the finest quality. He has a very individual style, loves to wear hats and jewelry and has his suits tailor-made at a famous sartoria in Rome, where he promises to take Tom to buy him a new jacket, but in the end he doesn’t. The talented Mr. Ripley succeeds to copy his style to the tiniest detail after all; Tom becomes Dickie.

Isn’t this photo above overwhelming?

Above: it speaks a thousand words.

Although Dickie’s wardrobe is the one that first comes to mind when you think about the film, the most suggestive costumes in helping advance the plot are Marge Sherwood’s, played by Gwyneth Paltrow. Her style gradually changes from the carefree resortwear compiled of flirty mid-length printed skirts, bikinis and white shirts tied at the waist or worn over bathing suits, that so well describe the comfortable and easy life she and Dickie have been living, to more serious outfits, sophisticated day-wear (ladylike dresses, trenches, scarves, gloves and compact totes, it’s the 50s after all) and a gorgeous blue evening dress with string bows at the back that she wears to the opera, as the plot darkens and her love life comes to pieces.

There is also Meredith Logue, Cate Blanchett, in a supporting but significant role. She is an American socialite travelling the world. Her belted full skirts, cashmere sweaters and throws-on, berets, red lips and a gorgeous pair of espadrilles I would love to own nicely delineate her character, which was created for the film by Anthony Minghella, who also wrote the script. There’s a suspenseful turn in the plot whenever she makes an entrance. The Talented Mr. Ripley is enthralling from start to end and, as I have said at the beginning of the article, a classic, timeless in every aspect.

 

Discover our movie stories shop – inspired by the fascinating world of cinema and by the never-fading beauty of the tangible

 

photos: screen stills from the film, captured by me; kindly link back to classiq if you would like to use any of these images; production credits

Posted by classiq in Film costume | | 24 Comments