It is a privilege to have Mary Jo Matsumoto as guest once again on Classiq today. An established fashion designer, with clothing, accessories, jewelry and, most recently, beauty lines, Mary Jo is talented and inspirational, she has a degree in both rhetoric and film, and a passion and an eye for all of the above forms of art. Needless to say that her blog, Trust Your Style, is one of my daily stops online; it always gives me a new perspective on fashion and thoughtful reading material. I had the huge pleasure to have a friendly and fascinating talk on fashion and film with Mary Jo and those of you who have been following my blog for a while can imagine that this has been a much anticipated moment for me.
La Dolce Vita (1960) directed by Federico Fellini
1) You have a degree in film. What inspired you to study film?
I fell in love with Europe when I was in college and went to Italy to study painting. Walking through all the ancient places I realized that painting was the way to affect change in the world during the Renaissance, but film had the ability to mix all the disciplines, music, art, literature, fashion. I came back and started a second major in film.
2) Why the change of direction to fashion? When did you realize you didn’t want to follow up a film career and instead moved on to fashion?
None of my friends could believe when I made the move — I was so invested in film, and during year one and two, they kept saying that they knew I’d be back. But the handbags took off so fast for me in the beginning and I got so much pleasure from making things and getting immediate feedback, ie sales, that I knew that I had no intention of going back. I went from having scripts optioned, but not made, and those “We love you, we’ll call you” meetings to walking into the supermarket and having women squeal and run over to ask me where they could get my handbag.
Jean Seberg and Jean Paul Belmondo in À Bout de souffle (Breathless, 1960), directed by Jean-Luc Godard
3) Have you ever considered costume designing? I think the influence of the designers of the Golden Age Hollywood on the fashion world has always been underestimated. A clear example is Adrian, I know he’s your favourite too, and I’m learning very much about him lately, which only makes me appreciate American designers more.
Adrian is such an unsung hero! Too bad he lived before the day of reality shows, because during his lifetime a costume designer/California based designers got little acknowledgment. I really wanted to get into costume designing when I first started designing; it seemed to be a natural fit, but everyone I met in fashion discouraged me and said that only a handful of people got to be a costume designer–according to everything I heard, it was harder to break into than writing and directing. But before I could figure out how to get my foot in the door, three weeks after starting my company, the buyers from Bergdorf Goodman found my line, put my bags in the windows of the NYC store and the catalogue and I never looked back.
4) Are films influencing your work as a designer?
Not much any more, but I think the films I watched when I was an undergrad film student still affect me to this day. UC Berkeley’s Pacific Film Archive had films that weren’t available any place in the US except maybe MOMA in New York. I’d park myself there or go down to this theater that showed European classics and watch 2 or 3 old classics a day. I was a huge Fellini fan back then, and looking back, it’s probably why I favor Italian mid-century over any other version, and those Italian cuts and funky accessories worn with such style will always be a huge influence.
Catherine Deneuve and Jean Paul Belmondo in François Truffaut’s La Sirène du Mississippi (Mississippi Mermaid, 1969); Catherine’s wardrobe was designed by Yves Saint Laurent
5) Is there a film in your opinion that had a defining influence on the world of fashion?
I think there are a lot of films that influence(d) fashion and the answer depends on who you talk to. Immediately I think of Blow Up, it’s just so iconic and designers constantly reference it. Catherine Deneuve movies and YSL are inextricably linked for a lot of people, myself included. I think girls are always trying to dress like their favorite movies, whether it’s an Audrey Hepburn or Marilyn Monroe or a more obscure film. I remember trying to emulate Diane Keaton’s look as a teen, which now that I think about it must’ve seemed kind of strange. Then I fell for the kitten heels in Last Year In Marienbad
, followed by the glamorous clothes in La Dolce Vita
— films I saw in college when I was 17 and 18 years old. In my early 20s I was smitten with the French New Wave, it’s pretty much the reason I applied to film school and once there I tried to dress like Anna Karina in Une Femme Est Une Femme
, lol. Even now, they’re saying the Jason Wu line at Target is inspired by the French New Wave, so it’s definitely had an impact. I think the cool thing about film and fashion is that you can draw from any period depending on how you’re feeling.
6) You live in Los Angeles and you are a fashion designer. Have you dressed any actresses?
No, it was never my goal to do this, I was more caught up with running my business and paying rent than giving stuff away in hopes of having a celeb wear it. I’ve had a few celebs buy my stuff, but more often I’ve gotten calls from stores that a princess or wife of a senator came in and bought my bags — and those kinds of sales make me happy too. Robin Wright Penn was a friend of a friend and ended up carrying my bag the year she accompanied Sean Penn to the Oscars and he won — so there was a clip of the two of them broadcast all over the world and played on Oprah and it was fun to see my bag everywhere. But at the end of the day, I get more pleasure when non famous people love and appreciate and invest in one of my designs. It means much more to me that someone would show their appreciation by taking their hard-earned money and buying one of my designs, if that makes sense.
Jeanne Moreau (top photo) and Monica Vitti in La Notte (1961), directed by Michelangelo Antonioni
Jeanne Moreau in Jules et Jim (1962) by François Truffaut
7) What is your design philosophy and your goal as a fashion designer?
I don’t know why I find this question so daunting, I guess it’s because I’ve evolved a bit as a designer and the things I originally set out to do a decade ago are not as interesting to me now. In the beginning it was enough to create things that were pretty and hopefully sold so that I could pay my rent. Now I find myself yearning to move into new areas like shoes and beauty and find so much of fashion lately to be so repetitive that I only want to make things if they add something new to the collective whole. Although going back to handbags, which is where I started, is also a fun new challenge — to see if I can improve on my designs, and make bags that I think are somehow missing but needed in the market place. I have a brand new luxe handbag line launching next month that I’m excited about, as I’ve never done day bags extensively before.
8)Every season there are high-end designer — store chain collaborations. Is it a win-win situation? How can one compete with high street fashion?
I was just talking about that with a friend a few days ago at breakfast! I think it’s really great that smaller fashion houses that aren’t as well known are getting a mass introduction, for example Marni for H&M. Seven years ago when I told people that Marni was my favorite design house, I would get a blank look. Now, thanks to these collaborations everyone from teenage girls on up knows about Marni, Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella, Missoni, etc. I think it’s great for fashion and pop culture in general.
I Vitelloni (1953) by Federico Fellini
9) Do you have a favourite movie?
La Dolce Vita followed by I Vitelloni
, which are really Part 2 and Part 1 of the same story: a small town guy heads out to make it big and finds out that the glamorous life doesn’t fulfill him. It’s a universal version of the tragic American dream, and there’s scenes in both those movies that still make me weep. To me, that’s good filmmaking.
10) In an industry channeled on remakes, commercial productions and special effects, do you still find the cinema world fascinating? Is there any trace of art left in it? I, for one, find less and less films able to arouse an interest in me. Although I think that 2011 was a good year.
I never thought I’d be saying this, but I think some of the best current work, at least in terms of writing, is on television. A lot of great screenwriters are working on shows like Californication, Shameless, Parenthood and The Good Wife. There are moments in Shameless that have a real indie film feel, but the lighting and costuming for most shows is still very “TV” and cinematically, I still prefer the classics.
Thank you, Mary Jo, for your wonderful contribution. My questions could have kept flowing for pages and pages.
I really loved this Ada. So inspiring. I can relate to her in some ways.
🙂
xxx
Oooh Ada what an amazing post this is! It was such an inspiration to read this interview, it were really interesting questions and Mary-Jo’s answers even more. I really loved getting to know her a little better like this and read about her thoughts and experiences. She seems very down to earth, which I like a lot.
Ada, this is such a wonderful interview!!! It felt as if you were talking over coffee and I could read it forever… (so I wouldn’t mind you going on for pages and pages 😉 ) x
Oh and I forgot to say HAPPY WOMEN’S DAY! xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Happy Women’s Day, my dear Natalia! xo
This post is simply wonderful, both the interview and photos. My only complaint is: Why did it have to end?
I’m willing to read more so please, Ada and Mary Jo, make part 2 😉
I’m glad you enjoyed it, Lisa. I tried to select the photos that would reflect Mary Jo’s answers. 🙂
Thanks for sharing, so inspirational!
Dear Ada, I enjoyed reading this interview with Mary Jo so very much! I second that – her blog is inspirational and she’s one of the kindest persons out there 🙂 So I appreciate to read and learn more about the person behind the blog! She’s so down to earth and passionated with what she’s doing. I can imagine how much fun you had when you girls (aaaah, happy women’s day!) had a talk about films 🙂 And I totally agree with Mary Jo reg. point no 10! That’s something that came to my mind within last week. A lot of good shows and series on TV and how they’ve influenced me. Looking forward to read more great interviews on your blog! Happy Thursday, dear!
Happy Women’s Day, Sofie! I’m glad you liked the interview, it was wonderful to have this talk with Mary Jo. xo
What a FABULOUS post!!! The perfect melding of style and substance – just my style. I always knew I loved Mary Jo and this is exactly why – thoughtful yet unpretentious answers and attitude!! She is well grounded in the history of aesthetics yet open to new ideas and determining how to make it all adaptable and accessible for our modern lifestyle. LUV IT ALL!!
Loved this Ada, Mary Jo really is very special and what an interesting woman x
https://fashionandfrank.blogspot.com/
A fabulous interview! Mary Jo is a great inspiration to all of us, getting to know her more through your interview-post is a pleasure, one that only is cut short by the ending of the article:)
great feature! i used to frequent PAC all the time when living in berkeley & i too love film inspiration!!
xoxo
I am touched to hear Mary Jo talk about her inspiration in work and life and how she started and where she is now… Mary you are very informed and curious about life… Hell, I think creating something with your heart and soul and putting it out there is not easy and very often it is a vulnerable thing to do, and when it is received, one feels like the self critique in us is silenced at least for a time…
I love you blog and await your bags….
xoxo
Melissa Lee
Thank you Ada for this lovely post–you are so kind to write such sweet things and I loved being part of your blog again!
xo Mary Jo
The pleasure was all mine, Mary Jo. Thank you so much for taking time to answer my questions and for doing it so wonderfully. 🙂
Yay!!! Mary Jo!!!
I had no idea you studied film in college! How interesting!
I love the images you shared and of course getting to read more on your insights on Fashion and Film….
I loved reading this Ada; it is so wonderful to get an insight into her thoughts on dressing actresses and her design philosophy- so incredibly fascinating to get a different perspective on these! xx
Love Mary Jo and this is such an amazing post! I absolutely adored learning more about her, and she is such an inspiration!
xRachel
Love her! She’s got such a cool career!
Wow Ada this was quite the interview! I loved it! Mary Jo is so talented and such an inspiration. It was so wonderful getting to know more about her thoughts on fashion, design and film. And my favorite movie also is La Dolce Vita. 🙂
isn’t she just divine?
if only we could clone mary jo this world would be a better place.
i just love this woman.
what a wonderful woman.
here! here on part 2 or maybe even part 3 on another interview with the magical miss matsumoto.
love,
katie
I just adore Mary Jo. She has sense a sense of style and her blog is one of my go tos every day!
What a lovely read… I’m sorry I missed it last night (I was out amazingly!)…a really interesting interview. And such classic iconic films to pinpoint – all such favourites of mine as well. I often think, classic film and classic fashion always go hand in hand and it is only natural that one would study film and fashion in the same breath. They both tell a story don’t they.xx
Lovely post!! love the interview and the photos are so inspiring!
xo,Clochet
http://www.clochet.com
WOWWee Ada! I’m so glad you stopped by otherwise I would have missed such an amazing post! (Plus i’m having real issue with Firefox/Safari so needed to break away from work/blog reading this weekend!)
I’ve only recently been introduced to Mary Jo and am already in awe… What a wonderful lady – loved learning more about her for sure! How did I NOT know she was a bag designer? I’m loving all the beautiful imagery to go with the post.
You’ve just given me a major flashback to my French lessons: I remember having to sit through most of Francois Truffaut “Nouvelle Vague” films… ‘Jules et Jim’ was memorable.
Thanks for sharing, have a wonderful weekend!
x.o.x.o
Fabulous interview with Mary Jo, I am fascinated by her business, her goals and her everyday life. I love her philosophy about making something for life. I do appreciate the democracy of the new big store collaborations but I don’t buy those things usually because I want something that is forever. (I have to say my friend purchased a whole lot of the latest HandM colllection and send it all back. Nothing fit properly…)
A wonderful interview from Mary Jo… love the choices of film…. xv
It’s so interesting reading Mary Jo’s thoughts about the link between movie and fashion and to know more about what drove and shaped her career. Not to mention, it’s a real pleasure discovering that she’s been inspired by some iconic Italian movies…
Great interview. I heard about your blog from the lovely Mary Jo. Love your blog too. When you have time , visit my blog.
NEWSLETTER