The Women was one of Adrian’s most influential films. Many present-day designers still point to the 1939 movie as an inspiration. Adapted from a satirical play by Clare Boothe Luce, with a screenplay by Anita Loos, it was directed by George Cukor and it had an amazing all-female cast led by Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Rosalind Russell, Joan Fontaine and Paulette Goddard. Their wardrobes epitomized glamour, femininity and a certain grace. Adrian adopted the policy of not showing his designs for one actress to the other because of the off-screen animosity between Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford and other jealousies, too. In The Women Adrian excelled in projecting the contrasting personalities of the female characters through costumes.
The film is fashion-heavy, so I have decided to write two blog posts about it. The other one will be published tomorrow and will feature the fashion show that takes place in the movie.
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Norma Shearer, as the wronged wife Mary Haines, is dressed in attractive, but prim suits. A line in the movie, which is filled with witty dialogue, says: “She is the only woman while the others are just females.” When she finds out about her husband’s infidelity from a gossip beautician, she’s wearing a black skirt and a short jacket with a black collar and a single button closure (the stills above). There is one detail in this costume that prefigures her courage: a small military medal decoration on her chest.
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In a projected film taken on a vacation, Mary wears a few lovely casual attires, one of which the one seen on the screen above: beautiful palazzo pants and striped top. How timeless that look is!
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In her first scene, Rosalind Russell wears a blouse with three “seeing eyes” boldly outlined in black, a surrealist depiction that perfectly conveys the meddlesome nature of Sylvia. It was eye-catching in the black and white film, but it must have been vibrant in its natural colours: violet on fuchsia over a purple skirt. Although the audience wouldn’t see the colours, the actresses did, and Adrian exploited colour for its psychological effects. Sylvia’s subsequent costumes would range from awkward to downright silly.
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Joan Crawford, playing Crystal Allen, the other woman, wears costumes that contrast with Norma Shearer’s. As a salesgirl on the make, she looks great in basic black, but when she replaces Mary as the love interest of Stephen Haines, her wardrobe is visibly transformed. Adrian liked to dress Crawford in classic lines that set off her strong features, and the wide shoulder look, his invention and one of his signature styles, makes me immediately think of her and her film characters.
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I love how the long sleeves look adorned with jewelry.
The rest of the gowns in the film are beautiful too, sporting so many of Adrian’s favourite details: from military influences and stripes, to dolman sleeves and flowers.
The fabulous hats play a role of their own. What a way to finish off the two office-looks in the right (still above)! And those two suits are so perfectly fit.
The hood, a sunning detail both for a day dress and an evening gown.
In the film’s final scene, Shearer and Crawford present a definitive contrast, a contrast made particularly piquant by the known fourteen-year rivalry between the two actresses. Mary is dressed in striking lamé, Crystal in an eye-popping sequined and jeweled halter top and long skirt with bare midriff.
I couldn’t recommend this film highly enough: it is a real treat, from the delightful, sharp script, to Adrian’s fashion feast.
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images: still from ‘The Women’ (1939), captured by me; kindly link back to classiq if you use any of these images; production credits
source: the book Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label
I loved this movie, it was so magical in costumes and the story was amazing!
The fashion in this film looks incredible! And the way the costumes are used to distinguish each character is so interesting.
Thank you so much for sweet words 🙂 Yes nature is really the greatest source for calmness and peace, Its easy to forget that ometimes when you live in a big city.
Very cool pics…I love old movies and stars..so much glam back in the days.
I wish you a great week
LOVE Maria
What an impressive overview upon such a classic:) I don’t want to know how long it took to capture all the wonderful photos and all the energy you put into putting together this tremendous post! Amazing and thank you for such boundless inspiration:)
Ada,
You should send the link to Victoria Beckham! Some of the dresses are so her! And so in Vogue!
Thank you for your sweet comment today. I love my bookshelf ladder! (:
Hugs to you,
Mon
SO happy to see these amazing screen grabs – this is one of my all time favorite films!
You are making me crave a re-viewing of The Women right now! I adore Adrian {as you know}, just love love love this post and all your attention to detail Ada!
xo mary jo
A fashion feast indeed! This film looks marvelous!
All of the outfits are so feminine + elegant, oh what it would have been like to live during that era! Looking forward to your next post about the fashion show! xx
And you know how I feel about this film…LOVE IT!… and the blouse that Rosalind Russell wears with the eyes on the chest is fabulous – so very Schiaparelli! The hats are just wonderful on their own jauntily placed on the head – just perfect. How beautiful is that hooded evening gown…too beautiful. A couple of months ago I watched the remake of The Women – with Meg Ryan and Eva Mendes and although Annette Benning was the highlight of the movie- it didn’t even come anywhere near the original! At All !! Thank you for a wonderful post… and I’m looking forward to the second part! You’ve made my dayxx
No, the remake didn’t even come near the original. I remember I went to the cinema to see it and I was so disappointed. I hadn’t expected much, who does in the case of remakes?, but it isn’t even worth a mention.
Ada, this is beautiful. I cannot wait to see part 2 of this post!
Why on earth haven’t I seen this film?!! I seriously must take care of that soon so consider this one already on my long list!
I love this movie: it’s such a classic and it epitomises the elegance and glamour of the ‘Old Hollywwod’. Ada, your insights in the fashion and design are so interesting and I look forward to the part II!
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