Alfred Hitchcock was a director who could easily move from black comedy to documentary realism, from light-hearted action adventure to dark psychological thriller without compromising his vision. After all, he was the darling of many French film critics writing for the Cahiers du Cinéma and who started the French New Wave: François Truffaut, Claude Chabrol, Eric Rohmer. However, during the period 1954-1960, the most prolific of his career, with nine feature films and numerous TV episodes, he was typecast as the ‘Master of Suspense’. It is unfair and ignorant of someone to limit his cinema style to this perception, but it was also in those years that, due to the complete creative control he had over his films, he had the greatest freedom he had ever experienced. One of the movies was North by Northwest (1959), which we have covered in a previous film feature and today I am going to talk about the fashion.
“Hitchcock made everybody in the picture dress in a classic style… He didn’t want the picture to date because of the clothes. There’s not one outfit I couldn’t wear today with a few minor adjustments and not look stylish.” Eva Marie Saint
Smart black suit.
A look that reminds us that Eva Marie is one of the quintessential ‘Hitchcock blondes’. Eve Kendall’s jewelry is beautiful, starting with this emerald pendant and delicate watch with thin leather strap.
Full-skirted black silk dress with a red roses pattern; almost off the shoulders continuing with a bare back. Chic pairing with the wrist-length gloves.
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There is one particularity about Eva Marie Saint’s costumes in this movie: her wardrobe was entirely shopped directly off the models at Bergdorf Goodman as opposed to leaving all or part of it to be designed (and especially in the case of a Hitchcock film, who was famous for making the clothes in his film an integral part of the characters portrayed on screen). Though since late ’60s-early ’70s this has become a common practice, it was still a radical idea in the 1950s. MGM had been the one studio that had a consistent design staff. But in this case, Helen Rose, the studio’s head designer, was unable to be on set as much as Hitch had expected and he almost asked for Edith Head’s assistance. In the end he did not, nor did he like the studio’s sketches for the character of Eve Kendall, so instead he took Eva Marie shopping.
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I like the way the stone of the ring picks up the colour of the roses.
Flawless ladylike look. Beautiful blue-grey dress: boat neckline, incorporated belt in the same grey shade as the long gloves and hat brim and bow. It’s interesting and a welcome change to see a bag in the ’50s in a different colour than the shoes or the rest of the accessories.
Orange wool dress with a neckline scarf detail (attached to the dress).
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The elegant fourteen-gauge mid-grey worsted-wool Kilgour suit, one of the best suits in the history of cinema. Cary Grant usually used his own wardrobe in his movies. He had also done it in another Hitchcock film four years before, To Catch A Thief. “The male movie stars of that era didn’t have the luxury of big wardrobe departments and stylists swirling around them. They were film stars because they were also incredibly elegant men. Their wardrobe just went hand in hand with the work they did, so they’d obviously be at their tailors.” Carlo Brandelli, creative director of Kilgour, Savile Row. And Cary Grant was the most stylish movie star of them all. By 1959 Grant’s impeccable style was second nature to him.
Roger Thornhill goes through every possible ordeal in North by Northwest, but he remains perfectly dressed and unruffled. His suit gets sometimes a little dusty or scuffed, but nothing a good dry cleaner couldn’t take care of in a few hours. This is how it should be with a good suit. And the suit was Cary Grant’s grand achievement, as Richard Torregrossa, author of the book Cary Grant: a celebration of style says.
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I love his posture in this one. He felt so at ease in a suit, just like most men feel in jeans and t-shirts.
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The suit jacket in North by Northwest is ventless and Cary is always wearing it unbuttoned at the last button (that’s how it should be done). This helps his suit move gracefully with him during his unrelenting ride. Cary used to customize his suits and have his tailor lengthen the single or double vents of the suits beyond their normal boundaries. This made the jackets more functional and also created the illusion of greater height and slimness. The illusion of a lean line is also created in the film by the choice of matching grey socks and by eschewing a belt. The chocolate brown Derby shoes are the only contrasting accessory.
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Who other than Cary Grant could pull off these sunglasses?
White shirt, grey tie, French cuffs. Throughout the entire movie, whether he stands, sits or runs, the shirt cuffs always show. And only at Cary. Another custom-made element? Most probably. The grey of the suit attractively matched even his greying hair. Cary Grant was a man of details.
“I can’t think of him without thinking of him in a beautiful suit, shirt and tie. I never saw him in jogging clothes or t-shirts; that was such an important part of his image. It was so smart of him. I don’t know any other actor who could do that.” Eva Marie Saint
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images: stills from North by Northwest captured by me; kindly link back to classiq if you use any of these images; production credits
the sources for this article were the books: ‘Alfred Hitchcock: The Complete Films’, by Paul Duncan; ‘Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style’, by Richard Torregrossa; ‘Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer’, by Jay Jorgensen
You know what I do when I see the heading Style in…(insert movie title) on Classiq? I scroll down excitedly and ooh and aah all the way to the bottom of the post as I look at the images you capture! I love these posts. And this has got to be my Top 10 favourite movie. Cary Grant (aaah) in that gorgeous blue/grey suit – stunning! (the first Hmmmm, Homme to be featured of mine) – Eva Marie Saint – ooh, the hair, the immaculate make up, the posture – that stunning brocade floral dress! (the dress also featured in a previous ‘floral’ post) – I just love this movie. But also for the witty and tongue in cheek dialogue – and the best scene has got to be the last one (well second last to last) as Roger is reaching for Eve’s hand to hoist her up off the face of the Mt Rushmore – cut to next scene (I won’t spoil it!) LOVELY… :)xx
That’s one of my favourite scenes too, Helen. But there are so many: like the one tipping off his mother to go to the hotel desk and find out the number of Kaplan’s room. (she doesn’t do it for $10, but she does it for $50). Or when he asks Vandamm’s men to be reasonable and not kill him, because he has two ex-wives, a mother, a secretary and a few bartenders who depend on him. Hitchcock has humour in all his movies. 🙂
Such a great post again on movies and the elegance!
Ada, when I think it’s impossible you go ahead and top yourself! I so enjoyed reading this post and viewing the photos. That black dress with the red roses is so beautiful. I remember seeing it so I’m wondering if I already have seen this film, I simply can’t remember. Maybe it was just a really long time ago. Well, I’ve put it on my long list of films to watch.
Thank you!
I am so looking forward to the day that I can sit down with my Classiq movie list and devour them one by one (one day soon I hope). Again, this is another one I haven’t seen so it will be going on the list! Not only did I enjoy all Eva Marie’s beautiful outfits but I am also wishing I had that hairstyle!
Oh I love this movie. xx
Have a great day Ada.
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I still need to see this one! Can’t believe it. Love her style in that first frame!
Oh Ada, where can you get all this style inormation? Really a very interesting post, I’ve enjoyed it so much. I’ve always liked Hitchcock films not only for their stories but for the style of actors and decoration. No doubt he got a perfect elegant result in the Eva Marie’s wardrobe just shopping at Bergford Goodman… and Cary Grant is and incredible classy man! In the meantime I’ve enjoyed also the interiors decor and photography colors.
Please let us know more about Hitchcock’s films! Xxxx
Gorgeous post! Loving the classy style! Have a fabulous day, Kellie xx
And this is what I am going to find and watch this week. Shame I haven’t seen it before… Absolutely in love with the elegant wardrobe.
Have a wonderful day!
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I absolutely love what Eva Marie Saint wore in this film! And I think I need to figure out how to pull off wearing gloves : )
Where to start? I really love the gray dress, lighter gray gloves and tan handbag that Eva Marie wore, so incredibly chic. And of course the CG suit is beyond fabulous–love everything you wrote about it!
xo Mary Jo
Oh my! How I love the setting in this movie. And the fashion to me never looks out of place. They always look so elegant (even perfect).
Always loved that film and what a treat to see the costumes close up. Also beautiful photos – unbelievable quality captured by you!
I always loved to read these posts about film. Youre so incredibly knowledgeable about them and I just love learning from you. Fabulous post, Ada. And so interest to learn that the clothes were shopped for and not designed for the movie. xoxo
Oh my, oh my! The outfits? Amazing. Mr.Grant? Oh dear… I think I must watch this!
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Sarah
this is one of my favorite movies and i am a big hitchcock lover. carey grant is just so suave. i wish america still had this feeling about it.
I really like your writing, love all Eva Marie’s outfit in this movie. I also love Kim Novak’s elegant outfits in Vertigo, which is his best movie, I think 🙂
Hi–especially loved Eva’s remarks about the wardrobe at the Academy Awards this week. She still loves that rose and black dress and so do I! It’s just so beautifully memorable on her! And it goes along so well with her own innate beauty at 94 in 2018!
Yes, that dress is still beautiful and Eva Marie simply looked gorgeous on Sunday night at the Oscars. Ageless beauty.
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