As I was selecting my favourite PFW collections, I realised that my roundup could be resumed to the following: an essential respect for a deep history, coupled with a dynamic nod ahead. There were more collections I liked, but because of space reasons, I’ve decided to stick to three.
Céline: my favourite collection, without a shadow of a doubt. Watching the collection I had the feeling that these were clothes I had always desired, without my knowing what exactly I wanted. This was a collection that surpassed the Céline strict minimalism and that made a confident, wonderful feminine turn (didn’t you love those subtly flared skirts?). It was beautiful and chic, put-together and effortless. And there was something else that definitely sealed my love for Phoebe Philo’s creations. I’ve sometimes felt that my outfits could do better without a bag. Maybe because I’ve only seen bags as accessories until now. But these soft woolen Céline purses are so much more than an accessory, they’re more like a natural extension of the clothing.
Hermès. Luxurious, yet functional and easy to wear. Irrevocably French. The first thing I noticed was the variety of crisp white shirts. Paired with skirts, pants and even a dress, with leather jackets, coats or a cape, it was like the white shirt wanted to make a statement: that you can build an entire wardrobe around it. And isn’t that so? Then there was the leather: an element synonymous with the brand. And Christophe Lemaire knows how to work it: the leather skirts and tops looked fluid and delicate. A collection that is meant to make you feel good in your clothes.
Balenciaga. It’s happened. I liked Alexander Wang’s first collection for Balenciaga. Some of you may remember how reluctant I was to accept Wang as creative director of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s fashion house and as the replacement for talented Nicolas Ghesquière. But the truth is, and I am happy to admit it, that this was I think the most pleasant surprises at the fall 2013 shows. I appreciate it all the more for being distinct from Wang’s eponymous collections (I had my doubts). It was an homage to Balenciaga himself, smart, austere and sculptural. I loved the cut of the clothes, the rich textures, the minimal accessorizing, the sober headbands and those bow details on footwear and jewellery and garments. I hope this collection is a promise of moving forward and also a promise of continuing to respect the principles of what the house was founded on.
PS: I know this week was fashion heavy on the blog, but I have a couple of surprises for you next week that I think you’ll very much enjoy. Have a wonderful weekend!
photos: 1-8: Céline Fall 2013 / 9-18: Hermès Fall 2013 / 19-27: Balenciaga Fall 2013, all photos via vogue.com
Balenciaga was one of my favorites!
I agree, Wang for Balenciaga was a wonderful and pleasant surprise. Maybe it helps to have no expectations.
I haven’t watched many of the Paris shows, e.g. not the entire Céline show, just a few photos. I loved the purses and both the grey dresses you shared.
Have a wonderful weekend!
Wow, we are so on the same page! I was just getting ready to write about the new Hermes collection.
I love this post and your choices.
And I really like the new Balenciaga collection as well. The black and white outfits are so elegant. I especially like the subtle silver jewelry pieces.
Both shows were beautifully presented, loved what Alexander did for Balenciaga, I can see there’s more to come from him as he settles into the brand.
Fabulous picks!
x.o.x.o
Dear Ada, you really picked the best collections! I’m impressed by the fact that Phoebe Philo cannot do wrong. She perfectly understands what women want and give them beautiful clothes. As for Hermes, it was a collection full of elegance and femine pieces: a collection to dream of! Hope everything is well and that you enjoyed a nice w-e, Caterina
I loved Celine, too. I am currently planning my winter wardrobe – after a big weight loss I have to start from scratch! – and this collection is slowly taking over the inspiration board!
Hey, Ada, if Raf Simons kills Dior, at least Wang is doing very well with Balenciaga ;), I like the elegance of those outfit and the black and white game 😉 Kisses
Florina, can I quote you on Simons killing Dior? 🙂
you see? when I saw the beautiful work Alexander Wand did in his first Balenciaga show I thought of you and I said to myself Ada is going to like it. As you said Wang did a great job respecting Balenciaga and as well as Ghesquière previous work. I also loved Celine and Hermes. That Hermes coat is amazing. Thanks for these beautiful images.
Ada, it has been too long, have a morning off and came in for a nose – forgotten how much i loved doing this – could not agree more on your selection above – i also loved Rochas and Carven and No 21 was styled so perfectly – have a very good weekend xx
Such a lovely surprise that you stopped by, Claire. I’ve missed you. There were so many beautiful collection at PFW, I agree, really impossible to limit my favourites to just these three.
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