True originality is a rare thing. I’m now aware of this more than ever before. Only a few weeks ago I was writing about a collection that had simply won my heart, Céline Fall/Winter 2013. I could hardly find any more adjectives to describe my feelings. Would I write the same words now? No. Why? In the left image above, you can see a Geoffrey Beene coat from 2004. In the right image, it’s a Céline coat just shown in Paris this March. I don’t pretend I didn’t know that designers draw inspiration from other designers and especially from past generations and innovative fashion houses. They might even do it involuntarily, unknowingly, and then apply it to their own work as if it’s the outcome of their own talent and creative minds. You don’t have to be an expert in fashion to have realised how many derivate collections are shown lately on the runway. And I’m not even surprised, with the interminable collections that are released throughout a year, as Lisa was aptly noticing too in a recent blog post.
But I don’t think that anything can justify the shocking similarity between these two coats and their styling. This is crossing the line. Needless to say that Geoffrey Beene was not even mentioned as one of the sources of inspiration of Phoebe Philo’s design. Or was he? The editors of Garmento Magazine, which pointed out the striking resemblance, were elegant enough to take this as a tribute paid to the American designer. Let me have my doubts. I still would have raised my eyebrow, but at least it would have been a sign of common sense and respect towards the creativity of others. But no, this similarity does not look like a tribute. When did copy become the norm in fashion of the highest rank? I guess the high street fashion brands really learn from the best. But at least, with them, you know where you stand.
Aside from the fact that this has left me with a very bitter taste, I have to say that it is also yet another proof that strengthens my conviction that the American designers have had a much more substantial impact on fashion than many fashion journalists have ever been willing to admit. And this has been going on since the beginning of the 20th century.
I hope your week is off to a good start!
photos: 1-Jack Deutsch, 2004 / 2-Vogue.com, 2013
I am speechless…
This is unbelievable! It is almost the exact same coat … and the same styling!!!
Are there no reactions from the fashion house?
I have such an admiration for Phoebe Philo so I’m stunned. Can it be that some young designer working for the house was allowed to take part in designing the collection and was maybe a little desperate and therefore did something like this?
PS. Thanks for the mention.
I admire your loyalty to Phoebe Philo, Lisa. I’m just like you, I don’t immediately jump to conclusions. But the house of Céline declined to comment on this and the ones at Geoffrey Beene did not want to get too much into debate, an act of class in my opinion, stating that designer Geoffrey Beene has “inspired designers over the past several years” and that the coat “recreated by Céline was a signature piece of Mr. Beene’s and a representation of how timeless his pieces were.”
Wow! It’s the styling of the coat that is so strikingly similar. An interesting post and food for thought.
https://missbbobochic.blogspot.co.uk/
They seem to identical! Shocking!
This is pretty amazing and as you say, shocking, Ada. But not the first such instance I’ve come across recently. Thank you for the shout out for American designers – I’ve thought the same for a long time.
Wishing you a lovely week!!
xo
I’ve always praised the American designers on my blog, Georgianna. And I often wonder, if legendary fashion houses have such an interest for American design, how come no one else does?
That is totally the same coat and styling right! I know we all borrow and that, but perhaps credit due where credit is due:) Interesting post Ada, thanks for sharing, and have a happy Spring day,
Axxx
I so agree with you! There in nothing new in the fashion anymore, indeed! That’s why I am trying to be more about style. Style is everything. It’s the reason I love your blog even through I am not commenting here too often. : )
And this is exactly why I focus on style on my blog. Thank you, Nadya.
Ada how lovely to hear from you – you are so right – they are identical – even down to the fabric – very surprising – i mean it is not like a similair trsr which lets face it is quite inevitable – it is a strong design – and therefore very much a copy – surprised! have a wonderful week xxx
https://fashionandfrank.blogspot.co.uk/
oooh, that is not good. it’s difficult to be a designer and like you said, not even unknowingly borrow from the recesses of you mind something you saw, once. but this! i can’t see how this is good for a designer for themselves, it really can reduce credibility within the industry, your clients . . . not worth it.
Not surprising, but really disappointing. It’s pretty hard to reinvent the wheel when it comes to shapes but the hope is to make it your own. This particular design is something I’ve seen from Japanese designers in the past decade and Viktor and Rolf too–(so who knows where it originally started–my guess would be Comme), but always with a flair indigenous to the design house. Just hoping that there won’t be more of this, it kind of ruins the line for me.
xo Mary Jo
I completely agree with you, Mary Jo: it’s almost impossible to invent something new in fashion anymore, that’s the truth. Everything is about reinterpretation now, but as you say, make it your own! I don’t know where this particular design style originated, this is more about the item per se and the fact that the Céline coat is an identical copy: that’s the bottom line. It’s a shame.
Wow… Very interesting that there has been no comment from the Celine camp. Were not talking about a High Street chain here, this is a luxury brand where you would not expect something so blatant. Interesting… A great post Ada:)
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