Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer

One of my Christmas presents was the book Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer by Jay Jorgensen. With fashion in the movies one of the regular features on Classiq and Edith Head having been one of the most famous and prolific designers in Hollywood I’ve been very curious about this book and have been waiting for it to find its way to my library and to my insatiable desire to learn more about fashion and film. Despite the book’s title, I have my reservations considering Edith Head Hollywood’s greatest designer. Nor do I think that she had a dazzling creativity. But I do think she was a serious, passionate designer, relentless worker and a maverick of self promotion. She was a very determined, persevering person, struggling every day to stay at the top of her profession. This would ensure her a career spanning nearly six decades of quality work, thirty-five Academy Award nominations and eight Oscars.

What I love about the book is that it is very thoroughly researched, covering Edith’s career decade by decade, with details on designs and stories behind the productions. It also includes never-before-seen sketches, costume tests, behind-the-scene photos of Edith and the stars, quotes and anecdotes of some of the silver screen’s biggest stars. It describes very well the entire costume design process, from research to the major part clothes played in the advancement of a character and that the script had to be in perfect harmony with the costumes. Edith Head thought of all the details to the character, to the scene, down to the last thing. This was one of her greatest assets.

Another thing I like is its accuracy and objectivity. It states very clearly the fiery policy of the Hollywood studio system: very often the head designer alone would take credit for all the costumes in a film even though the levels of contribution were so various, from an entire team of sketch artists and designers behind the head designer, to pulling clothing from stock, sometimes shopping right off the racks of the department stores or using the creations of Paris couturiers.

An episode that would cast a shadow over Edith Head’s career and would bring her many critics was the one regarding the film Sabrina, starring Audrey Hepburn. Audrey wanted to wear real Paris fashion in the movie and she traveled to Paris to meet Hubert de Givenchy. He didn’t have time to design the clothes specifically for her character, but Audrey borrowed enough clothes from the collection he was working on. All that was left for Edith and her department to do was to create a dress from a sketch by Givenchy and to manufacture duplicates that would be needed in case a dress was soiled during production. Since there was no contract between Paramount and Givenchy, there was no legal obligation for the studio to credit his designs. Ethics did not apply in this case. Both Audrey and Givenchy were shocked when Edith Head’s singular credit appeared on the film. What was even more hard to believe and forgive was her winning an Oscar for the costumes in Sabrina and not even then acknowledge or thank Givenchy.

Despite this unfortunate episode involving Audrey Hepburn, Edith Head developed close work relationships and even friendships with many stars and style icons: Barbara Stanwyck, Ingrid Bergman, Grace Kelly, Shirley MacLane, Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor, Anne Baxter. They all praised Edith’s talent, professionalism and dedication to her craft. The fact is that Edith Head has had a great influence over women’s fashion. She realized early on the value of publicity and she became as famous as the stars she designed for, the most influential costume designer of the twentieth century.

Wishing you a wonderful weekend!

photos: by me from the book Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer

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20 Responses to Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer

Christine (Fash n Chips) wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 11:28 am

Thank you so much for this review and the pictures! I’ve had this book on my wishlist for a while now, but was hoping I could flip through it sometime to see if it was really worth buying – and now I’m convinced! It looks so good! <3
Nicole wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 11:29 am

Oh how I wish I had this book! 🙂
Edith is a great role model. Her work and passion are good traits to look up to.
xxx
Shin wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 11:59 am

Hi Ada! What a fantastic review! I’m really fascinated by the costume designers for the movies and this is a must-have! I’m so sorry for my late comments as I’m drowned with so much work. I really appreciate your sweet comments as always! Wishing you a lovely weekend! xxooxxoo
LatteLisa wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 12:38 pm

What a beautiful and interesting book you’ve added to your collection! You know how I love these old Hollywood posts of yours.

I remember reading that Sabrina-Givenchy story before, probably in some biography of Audrey. It seems strange that a professional would behave like that and arouse such controversy about her own work.

Have a beautiful Friday!
LittleRus wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 12:41 pm

What a wonderful book and what a story re: Sabrina movie!!! You know I’ve always thought EVERYTHING there was Givenchy, because Audrey always worked with him, and I never even checked the credits! Love this post so much and added the book to my Wish list.

Have a wonderful day, my sweet!

P.S. Still dreaming of having a waist like Audrey’s…. totally unrealistic, but God, it’s so tiny and beautiful! 🙂

xxx
Helen @ TheStyleSchedule wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 12:46 pm

I’d love to pour over the sketches in this one… Thanks for the review.
Have a great weekend, Ada.
x
Joanna wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 1:17 pm

I already love this book! All these photos and sketches! Fabulous. I’m sure it’s a fascinating book 🙂
Best regards,
Joanna
Priscilla Joy wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 4:28 pm

Ada it seems like a lovely book.
And re: hair: you are absolutely right. I would not be able to leave the house if my hair wasn’t tidy.
Have a splendid weekend. Smile loads.
xx
Alexa wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 7:03 pm

Wow what a cool book…and such talent. Love that shot of Natalie Wood!
Claire wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 9:22 pm

Fascinating – have added this to my list of coveted reads – thank you so much for such a lovely comment Ada, much appreciated, and have a very good weekend xx

https://fashionandfrank.blogspot.com/
Shawna wrote on
--> 13 January 2012 at 10:26 pm

Sounds like a very interesting read! I have so many books that I want to read right now, but I think I shall put this one on my list! I think it would be inspiring!
A.n.e wrote on
--> 14 January 2012 at 9:09 am

This book looks amazing. Those classic films are so elegant and timeless Just pure flawless style and elegance!

Happy new year.
mary jo wrote on
--> 14 January 2012 at 9:28 pm

I enjoyed this Ada, as fashion in film is one of my first loves…and I agree with so much of what you write. Adrian is my favorite film costumer/designer–not well known but his designs are so gorgeous. I collect some of his vintage pieces, they take my breath away!

xo Mary Jo

p.s. you have inspired me to track down the video with robin wright wearing my bag at the oscars–hoping to find it over the weekend!
Captivated by image wrote on
--> 14 January 2012 at 10:55 pm

It was a true joy reading your thoughts about and content from this beautiful book. I would love to read and see more, especially those sketches <3 Great post Ada 🙂 Hope you are enjoying a wonderful weekend.
Not Just A Pretty Dress wrote on
--> 15 January 2012 at 3:12 pm

Ada, you wrote a beautiful review and thank you for introducing me to Ms. Head (even if I was shocked to read abot the Sabrina episode!). I often think that nowadays costume designers are underestimated, unless we talk about the Oscars, but there are many amazing talents. Hope you’re having a great w-e!
fashionsensitive wrote on
--> 15 January 2012 at 3:55 pm

Great post, Ada! I wish I had the book! Enjoy the weekend:)
Dawn {The Alternative Wife} wrote on
--> 16 January 2012 at 12:56 am

This book looks fabulous! Exactly the kind of book I wish I were reading today. Thanks for sharing the review, Ada! I’ll be sure to add it to my list 🙂

Hope you’re having a wonderful weekend! xoxo
Monica wrote on
--> 16 January 2012 at 1:11 am

Omg omg omg I need this book! Love her she is such an icon!

Xo M
Georgianna wrote on
--> 17 January 2012 at 7:37 am

Hi Ada! What a wonderful Christmas present! Thank you for the in depth review and honest assessment of the contents. I honestly had no idea about the Sabrina incident. Very shocking. But there must be incredible detail in the book to captivate any film or costume aficionado. I will definitely check it out.
Hope you are having a great week!
xo
– g
Lulu wrote on
--> 27 October 2014 at 6:37 am

I wonder if you’ve got “To Audrey With Love” by Hubert de Givenchy? It has 150 exclusive, never-before-seen sketches and came out this October. Alas, it has a steep price of $150 and for the 240 pages the price is too steep for me!
I adore your posts on classic Hollywood fashion!