The plot in The Birds (1963) has socialite Melanie Daniels (Tippi Hedren) chasing Mitch Brenner (Rod Taylor) to play a prank on him to a town where birds are attacking people for no apparent reason. Nobody has any idea what draws the birds and turns them bad, and Hitchcock makes sure that the mystery stays intact, choosing not to explain what’s happening. The open ending leaves you reflecting and that’s one of the most intriguing parts of the movie.
The small town is called Bodega Bay and is at about 60 miles North of San Francisco, and the sense of location is so sharp and assured that it makes it seem very familiar, like you’ve been there. It’s a feeling that stays with you and that makes the film all the more impactful. San Francisco was one of Alfred Hitchcock’s favourite movie locations and this is such an interesting subject that I will probably approach it in a future blog post, even before I get my hands on this book.
Tippi Hedren had just the kind of cool blonde good looks that Hitchcock liked. And she does look so cool and sharp in this first costume (my favourite of the two in the film), a simple and elegant charcoal grey wool blend suit with stand collar, three-quarter length sleeves and angled front welt pockets, worn with long black leather gloves, an oversize fold-over clutch and classic pointed-toe pumps. I’m not overlooking the white shirt either, collarless and with three-quarter sleeves, with its cuffs peeking from underneath the jacket sleeves – I love this detail, as I myself like to play with layering sleeves lengths. If we look for a little symbolism, as it usually is the case with Hitchcock’s films, we can see this costume as a sign of the dark events to come.
Hitchcock was planning on using a lot of green in the movie, and limited Edith Head, his long-time collaborator, to using green in Hedren’s wardrobe as well. “Green to Hitchcock evoked a chaste, cool quality, setting Melanie apart from the Bodega Bay residents”. Edith Head used another one of her designs, the eau de nil suit worn by Grace Kelly in Rear Window, as inspiration for Tippi’s green suit, only this time with a structure more akin to a Chanel suit. The costume designer kept the lines simple – she usually did, especially in the ’50s and ’60s, because it had always been her fear that if she didn’t, her designs wouldn’t stand the test of time. Six copies of the suit were made, since Tippi would wear it for a large part of the film, and most of them would need to be distressed during the repeated attacks of the birds.
Sleeveless sheath wool dress with side darts, bias finish on the jewel neckline, nipped in at the waist, matching big buckle belt. It is teamed with a matching jacket with three-quarter raglan sleeves with turnback cuffs and patch pockets. A mink fur coat, a brownish tote, taupe shoes and suede gloves, and a ton sur ton silk scarf complete the look.
Isn’t it interesting that Annie Hayworth (Suzanne Pleshette), an old flame of Mitch’s, is wearing green too, but a darker shade of green, in one of the scenes? That was Hitchcock – a detail is not just a detail and every single frame is meticulously constructed.
Reportedly, Hitchcock personally selected Hedren’s jewellery for the film: a multi-strand, two-toned pearl necklace and bracelet and a pair of gold hook stud earrings for the charcoal grey suit, and the same earrings, a gold necklace, a chunky gold ring and a delicate gold bracelet watch for the green suit. It was important that Melanie be elegant to suggest her privileged social position and materialistic nature, so her wardrobe had to send out a certain message.
Since Hedren wears only three costumes, her entire film wardrobe cost just $5,000. The nightgown she wears in the film was supposed to have been purchased at an inexpensive variety store, so that’s just what Edith did. “There are wonderful designers who make you look good, very elegant,” Tippi said. “But Edith taught me that you not only design to make a person look according to their character, you have to make sure the person can do the action.”
The sense of style in Hitchcock’s films always comes as a bonus. The importance of the clothes is never underestimated, quite the contrary, the costumes are one of the many elements that come together like pieces in a puzzle to create a work of art – therein lies my fascination for Hitchcock’s movies.
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photos: stills from the film, captured by me from Alfred Hitchcock: The Masterpiece Collection | Universal Pictures, 1963
sources: Edith Head: The Fifty-Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer, by Jay Jorgensen / Alfred Hitchcock: The Complete Films
, by Paul Duncan
Such a great approach to the style subject! Love it! Thanks Ada.
A film I will never forget, not only for the birds but also the style. I think I was 11 or 12 when I first saw it and I never forgot the wardrobe – I loved it. And yes, birds scared me for months after watching it, haha
Beautiful stills, Ada, as always.
oh, this is one of my favorites from hitchcock. it’s not necessarily my favorite film of his, but i love the styling. the location is beautiful and i think it is exactly the color details he used in the the film that have always resonated with me.
The quintessential cool blonde for Hitchcock! Love that movie. I must say that first charcoal suit is my favourite (charcoal grey/ slim fit/ simple lines) – just gorgeous! 🙂
Can’t wait to see this movie!
That’s an interesting article, thanks for noting the super style and detail of Tippi’s costumes in this film. However, her gloves, shoes, bag and even scarf with the green suit are are taupe, not grey and brown. That is partly why they are so memorable, because they match.
Thank you for your remarks. I agree about the shoes and gloves that they are taupe and I’ve made the changes in the text. I do agree that I tend to extend the brown palette too much.
There is no mention of what kind of bag was used with the green outfit, can you find out? To love that bag! Thanks
Can you please tell us what kind of bag Tippy carried in the movie.Thank you!
Love, Love that extra long black clutch handbag she carries in one of the opening scenes! I have loved that bag since the first time I saw this iconic film! It took me over 40 years; but I found one 23 inches long! Not exactly like hers. Mine is black leather, with a top kiss lock. Bought it for $35.00, in pristine condition! It had never been used, kept in storage since the early 60’s according to the seller. I was so excited! I get sooooooo many compliments and questions as to where I got it. It is so classy, fashionable and makes such a statement.
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