“I have found myself in the position of a revolutionary. A revolutionary who has always defended the right to be normal, as an extreme mooring of sophistication, a point of arrival in which the details, above all, are important. Thus operating by substraction, by removal, using ordinary elements, I have, they say, turned around the very concept of elegance. My revolution has not always been evident to all, perhaps because it was not as dramatic as most revolutions imagine themselves to be, but over time it has proven to be much more incisive.” (Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani Magazine n°14, 1995)
Giorgio Armani, who has recently turned 80, indeed revolutionized fashion and it was Richard Gere’s wardrobe in the film American Gigolo (1980), where he plays male escort Julian Kaye, that launched the designer’s career. Since then on, menswear has not been quite the same. Talking about his designs, Armani stated that his notions of deconstruction were even political in as much as he was advocating a change to the status quo. Replacing the confining traditionally tailored Savile Row suit, Giorgio Armani introduced a notion of fluidity and ease of movement that reshaped the design of formal menswear. He achieved this more relaxed silhouette by knocking the stuffing out, removing the padding and dispensing with the lining. He also lightened the weight of the suit, replacing tweed and flannel with softer fabrics, such as wool crêpe, which resulted in the same ease of wear and free-fitting as could be found in a knitted cardigan. Linen and silk suiting became part of the men’s wardrobe as well. Armani created an aesthetic of luxurious, soft, understated elegance.
Above, Julian wears a double-breasted light grey flannel jacket with more defined shoulders. This is a semi-formal outfit, where he wears separates instead of a suit, without elegance suffering one bit.
Throughout the film, Gere sports everything from formal to casual attire, from leisure-wear to evening clothing, the complete wardrobe of the modern man – although I should mention that not everything he wears is Armani, but the prominent part is.
The whole style of the film was influenced by Italy, as director Paul Shrader was telling GQ. “Los Angeles is an over-photographed city and has that punishing sunlight. It’s hard to find a new way to shoot LA. I got around that by going to Italy and bringing back Ferdinando Scarfiotti. He had been the art director on Bertolucci’s The Conformist and Last Tango in Paris and eventually he won an Oscar for The Last Emperor. It was Nando who was the driving visual force for the film.” Maybe it’s the art direction too, but there is definitely something Italian about Richard Gere’s style and attitude.
In the famous scene when he lovingly lays out his suits on his bed, it’s obvious that Julian loves his clothes, and that looks are important to him. This is one film in which clothes themselves, not only in connection with the character, play a major role, and that’s what cemented Armani’s success.
This is such a relaxed, yet elegant look. Linen, and especially a linen jacket (ventless and longer than typical in this case), with its unstructured silhouette, easily lends the look this quality. This ensemble is also an exemplification of Armani’s signature muted colour palette which he created: one ranging from grey, beige and greige, to anthracite and taupe.
The shirt, except when worn with a formal suit, is always unfastened at at least two buttons. As a rule, the maximum number of undone buttons allowed, on any given hot summer day, is three.
The Armani sunglasses are a nod to the 1950s Ray-Ban Wayfarer style, except that these come with larger frames and in a lighter tortoise-shell finish. It was the ’80s when, thanks to films like American Gigolo, Risky Business (Tom Cruise wears the classic Wayfarer style there) and Top Gun (here is my article on the fashion in the film), the eyewear was again elevated to legendary status. The ’60s were probably the only other decade when sunglasses made such a style statement, thanks to Audrey Hepburn’s Oliver Goldsmith iconic pair in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (follow the link to read more about her costumes) and Steve McQueen’s Persol shades in The Thomas Crown Affair.
The fitted, retro style blue jeans are probably the only item from Richard Gere’s wardrobe that I wouldn’t care to see revived today. But they are still better than the skinny jeans so many men wear nowadays. The overall look however, completed with an open neck shirt and blazer, is worth taking note from. The Italians have this look perfected to a science.
The streamlined simplicity of the black evening suit.
Shawl neck cardigan worn with linen pants, fitted shirt (which is usually in contrast to the loose shape of the jackets, or cardigan in this case) with short collar points, narrow patterned tie and thin leather belt (the only kind Julian wears).
To please my style-in-film set mind (that costumes have a narrative role as well), I will note that at the beginning of the film, Gere is meticulously pressed, but as the film evolves and the plot darkens, his clothes become wrinkled and “worn”, reflecting the changes his character goes through. Regardless of this aspect however, the Armani wardrobe in American Gigolo represents one of the biggest influences on fashion.
PS: If you are interested in the costumes of Richard Gere’s equally stylish counterpart, Lauren Hutton, here is my article on the subject.
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bibliography: Fashion: The Whole Story, by Marnie Fogg | Fashion Now
, by Terry Jones | GQ magazine
photos: stills from the film, captured by me from this DVD edition
Gere and Armani were made for one another. Watching Gere in his Armani is pure pleasure. Thank you, loved reading this and as always, your screen shots and commentary are spot on.
I’m glad you enjoyed the article, Heidi. Yes, Richard Gere and Armani were made for each other and I know the result wouldn’t have been the same if John Travolta, who was originally going to star, were in Gere’s place.
I’m so glad they went with Richard!
i haven’t seen this movie in so long. this is really making me want to re-watch it. i agree, though since reading you blog have noticed even more so, that clothes truly are a character in the movie and are also to be watched and taken interest in. on a side note, richard gere looks pretty handsome in that linen jacket, i must say. i don’t know why but if i a man can rock linen in any form he has my undying respect.
Whenever I see I man who knows how to wear linen, I say to myself: “That’s why effortless style comes more easily for men and that’s why women should learn more often from them.”
Gosh I haven’t seen this film is years and years. But it’s such a classic look for men, a linen jacket, open neck shirt and soft pants. Beautifully showcased under Giorgio Armani’s deft skills as a designer. I love that last image of Richard Gere with a simple dark shirt and light pants; so ‘Italian’ as you say.:)
This film is such an example of iconic male fashion. And looking at it through the lens of Armani’s quote only solidifies this…
Richard Gere in those Armani suits are the biggest reason I watch this movie each time it’s rerun on local television. Gere & the Armani suits were made for one another. Clothes made the man, and the man made the clothes in this movie.
Great Article thoroughly enjoyed this.American Gigolo, Richard Gere, Burst on to scene in the early 80’s during this sudden awareness of the man as a separate audience who was fashion conscious and fashion forward . I was but a young Buck back then but was totally linked in to the male fashion world…GQ was in it’s hay-day, Charles Hix & Bruce Webber were publishing books on men’s Grooming and Dressing, Stores were bursting at the seams with Names, Names,Names! Richard Gere has I think continued to carry this element of style throughout his career but nothing can ever compare to this epic movie and the appetizers of Fashions great Designers it served us with a Giorgio Moroder sound track still ringing in our ears as we left the theater …We were hungry for more Calvins, Lauren, Armani,Chereskin…..Nothing can compare to this era and this actor they will both be forever tied to that moment in time when the world was beautiful and it knew it…
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