Belle de Jour marked the beginning of a long-standing relationship, a unique partnership between Catherine Deneuve and Yves Saint Laurent and fixed her image for many years to come as the epitome of chic burgeoise. With Luis Buñuel’s help and under his direction, Saint Laurent managed to convince her not to wear too short skirts in the movie in a time when mini-skirts were “in fashion”, so that the film would never become outdated and grounded to a certain historical moment.
The style in this movie has survived through generations, a quality of all Yves Saint Laurent’s designs, noted for their ‘classic modernity’. Catherine Deneuve has always evoked an eternal femininity through the timelessness of her classic looks and clothes and the designer played a great role in this from that moment on.
In Belle de Jour (1967) she is Séverine, an upper-middle-class wife who spends her afternoons as a prostitute in a luxurious Parisian brothel. Belle de Jour is something very rare in the world of cinema. As Jean-Claude Carriere, the screenwriter, said, for the first time in the history of cinema Luis Buñuel dealt in a perfectly clear and obvious way with female erotic fantasies, something no one else had attempted before. But it was done in the most discreet possible way, nothing explicit is revealed in the movie, as Buñuel wanted to see Séverine covered with clothes. He does not care for her nakedness, but for the clothes that cover it, and for her perfectly polished appearance. The imagination defies reality.
And Yves Saint Laurent did an excellent job. He worked very well with the director, understanding that garments must be sewn on the character. Figure-hugging, tailored, minimalist and cut just above the knee, including an element of sexual display, but a controlled and class-coded one, which protected the heroine. Buñuel watched clothes very closely and knew exactly what he wanted to express through them. In their ultra-sophistication, the clothes brought an almost surrealist aspect to the film, a typical Buñuel element.
Two-tone red, slightly A-line dress with button shoulder straps and belt, worn with a short red Eisenhower jacket, double breasted. The precision of those cuts!
In the ski resort Séverine is wearing a beautiful cream sweater with asymmetrical zips. A very interesting shorter sleeve length, above the wrist, leaving room to show the white cuffs of the garment underneath.
The elegance of a monochromatic outfit. Fur trimmed brown leather coat, double breasted, leather buttons, rear vent and half belt back. Accessorised with short brown leather gloves and tote.
Under the sumptuous leather coat she is wearing a sleeveless, slightly flared dress, in the same brown colour. The simplicity of this dress is exceptional.
In a tennis attire.
The clean, perfectly cut military style coat. Almost all of Séverine’s clothes are military inspired, referring to the rigorous way she lives her life as a bourgeois. The grey wool coat she wears when she steps into the brothel for the first time is double-breasted, ventless, with wide-spread collar, epaulettes and just above the wrist sleeves. Black wool high hat, black gloves and tote, black Roger Vivier shoes.
A close-up of the accessories and the impeccable tailoring of the coat.
The safari dress. Sand tone, patch pockets, chain gold belt, fly front zip, epaulettes, shirt cuffs. In the sixties Yves Saint Laurent marked a turning point in the safari style with his iconic jacket.
Black patent trench coat with wool sleeves and very thin belt. A coat she’s wearing when she goes back to the brothel, a sign that she wants to continue with her double life. Tortoiseshell rimmed sunglasses.
The Roger Vivier buckled Pilgrim pumps may be legendary, but these suede shoes with scalloped edge truly stand the test of time.
The last outfit in the movie is this little black dress with contrasting white silk French cuffs and collar and black belt. Schoolgirl-like, incredibly suggestive for that reproachful last scene of the film.
Catherine Deneuve had all the qualities for the role: young, beautiful, with an aura of mystery emanating from her looks that she’s always managed to keep, and a kind of surface coldness; she could perfectly belong to that social class. And Belle de Jour is the most representative example of film as an art form.
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images: stills from ‘Belle de Jour’, captured by me/ production credits
sources for this article: the special features on the ‘Belle de Jour’ dvd and the booklet “Catherine Deneuve: from ice maiden to living divinity” included; the dvd is part of the Luis Buñuel Collection.
I LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE this woman,…she’s my IDOL!!! este un mare exemplu de feminitate si de cat de usor este sa fii frumoasa!!!
Stunning!!! That grey double breasted wool coat is sublime! Definitely something I search for every winter for my wardrobe – Impeccable! And those scalloped shoes – gorgeous. (In fact I tried on a similar pair of Manolo Blahnik shoes just this last weekend! )
Great Post Ada!
Helenx
Ada, this is amazing! I have so much respect for Yves Saint Laurent – that military trench is so perfect 🙂
This was such a breathtaking wardrobe–I would so love to have that brown leather coat! Beautifully written post Ada!
xo Mary Jo
oh my, I thought I would be seeing a few photos and then I find a treasure with a good story too! You’re amazing Ada. Fabulous and inspiring post. Love the timelessness of these outfits. I think I better watch that film again very soon with your detail eyes!
I was secretly hoping you would write about this movie sooner or later. 🙂 I rented a copy once, but it was sooooooooooooo bad I gave up watching it after just a few minutes and never had another chance since. The fact that it’s pure Yves Saint Laurent all the way through makes it even more special for me. Thank you for this post, darling. Really enjoyed it! xxx
Another movie I haven’t seen! The list grows ever longer Ada! I thought I loved her bright red coat the most and then I saw the black pumps with the scalloped detailing in the 2nd last picture and fell in love. I have to get my hands on a pair!
Ada, this post is beautiful! Loved the way you guided us through the wardrobe of this movie creted by two of my favourite designers – YSL and Roger Vivier. You are absolutely right about the beauty of the military coat and another favourite is the safari dress…
Me, too, me, too! It is fascinating how many details of her outfits you underlined! I did not see the movie, but now, I will surely do it and watch every single piece of garment, be sure of that! Have a wonderful 1st of December, dear Ada!:*
So gorgeous! I have to rent this movie immediately! It’s fascinating to learn about the background and context of the film, not to mention the fashion!
Such a powerful collaboration! It’s all perfection. She is one of my all time favorite actresses 🙂 xoxo
Ok it’s decided I’m watching this movie soon! Lovely and inspiring post.
Oh my goodness Ada…she is so stunning. Look at that perfect blonde hair!
I love watching this film for the style, and I love that hairstyle too – I tried it – horrendous on me!
Deneuve always has had that timeless style. I like her delicate beauty and so simple but classy French style.
Xxxx
one of my all-time favorite actresses and movies. everything about this film is artful and exquisite. love the stills you captures.
She exudes style! So elegant and such an icon. I am obsessing over her snow outfit…that sweater is so chic and now, I can’t get over it.
xx
Oh my! Her style and her hair! I love it! I must see the movie!
I want all of those jackets…the style here is just so timeless!
Ada, I love this post. I have heard this movie referenced so much for it’s stylish clothes and have tried to track it down numerous times without success. You have now inspired me to search on..such beautiful, timeless and stylish pieces!
I adore Catherine Deneuve!
Happy weekend Dear Ada!
That military coat was impeccable, timeless. Even though there is an undeniable 60s influence, the overall look is timeless. After seeing this, I became enraptured with the idea of a black patent coat. I’ve since let it go since it’s a hard thing to make chic, but sometimes a beautiful one comes along. It’s unusual but whenever I hear the line in Bad Romance of “I want your leather studded kiss in the sand” I think of BDJ where she is at the beach (wearing the studded hat) with her husband. Sometimes I wonder…
Excellent post. The only modern film that compares in terms of artistry, wardrobe, and female beauty is Wong Kar-Wai’s IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE (2000) featuring Maggie Cheung.
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