As I was selecting my favourite PFW collections, I realised that my roundup could be resumed to the following: an essential respect for a deep history, coupled with a dynamic nod ahead. There were more collections I liked, but because of space reasons, I’ve decided to stick to three.
Céline: my favourite collection, without a shadow of a doubt. Watching the collection I had the feeling that these were clothes I had always desired, without my knowing what exactly I wanted. This was a collection that surpassed the Céline strict minimalism and that made a confident, wonderful feminine turn (didn’t you love those subtly flared skirts?). It was beautiful and chic, put-together and effortless. And there was something else that definitely sealed my love for Phoebe Philo’s creations. I’ve sometimes felt that my outfits could do better without a bag. Maybe because I’ve only seen bags as accessories until now. But these soft woolen Céline purses are so much more than an accessory, they’re more like a natural extension of the clothing.
Hermès. Luxurious, yet functional and easy to wear. Irrevocably French. The first thing I noticed was the variety of crisp white shirts. Paired with skirts, pants and even a dress, with leather jackets, coats or a cape, it was like the white shirt wanted to make a statement: that you can build an entire wardrobe around it. And isn’t that so? Then there was the leather: an element synonymous with the brand. And Christophe Lemaire knows how to work it: the leather skirts and tops looked fluid and delicate. A collection that is meant to make you feel good in your clothes.
Balenciaga. It’s happened. I liked Alexander Wang’s first collection for Balenciaga. Some of you may remember how reluctant I was to accept Wang as creative director of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s fashion house and as the replacement for talented Nicolas Ghesquière. But the truth is, and I am happy to admit it, that this was I think the most pleasant surprises at the fall 2013 shows. I appreciate it all the more for being distinct from Wang’s eponymous collections (I had my doubts). It was an homage to Balenciaga himself, smart, austere and sculptural. I loved the cut of the clothes, the rich textures, the minimal accessorizing, the sober headbands and those bow details on footwear and jewellery and garments. I hope this collection is a promise of moving forward and also a promise of continuing to respect the principles of what the house was founded on.
PS: I know this week was fashion heavy on the blog, but I have a couple of surprises for you next week that I think you’ll very much enjoy. Have a wonderful weekend!