One collection that is, that truly spoke to me. But before getting to it, I have to say that the entire fashion month, and Paris Fashion Week in particular because my expectations were the highest there, was more disappointing than it was exciting. Too little designer work and too much (poor) stylist work. Too many incoherent collections throughout which too much seemed to be happening. Too much adherence to the heavily marketed fashion phenomenon (fashion and image-making taking over clothes-making). Too many attempts to imbue undeserving collections with some kind of avant-garde status or simply much more value than they were due just because they are label collections (yes, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent is on top of the list; and Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, I am looking at you, too). But in the eyes of most fashion editors and journalists, every collection on their schedule was a triumph, more or less. Why does everyone succumb to the industry peer-pressure when it comes to the runways?
That said, Dries Van Noten is the one collection I loved the most, my favourite of the season. The clash of colours, the play of prints (nobody does it like Dries, so naturally and so artfully), the marriage between rich, opulent fabrics and grounded, plain context (wide khakis, safari shirts, classic trench), the conjunction between Oriental influences and original military references, all conveyed in the balance of impeccable tailoring and perfect styling. It felt glamorous and current at the same time. A true fashion moment, with a timeless appeal.
photos: Dries Van Noten Fall 2015, via Style.com