Hugo Boss. Somehow, Jason Wu’s appointment at Hugo Boss had escaped me, but when I found out, the same time when I viewed his debut collection, it felt so right. The feminine silhouette, already a Jason Wu signature style, makes a perfect team with the tailored precision and strict elegance. I’ve always had an affinity for the Hugo Boss classicism, I even have a few of their items, including my favourite pair of ballet pumps, but I think that Jason Wu could elevate the brand and make it more desirable.
Calvin Klein. I think that what I loved the most about the Calvin Klein collection was that it surprised me. I’ve often expressed my admiration towards Francisco Costa’s avantgard minimalism, but I couldn’t help my enthusiasm when I saw the array of tailored knitwear that came down the catwalk. It took on a new sense of tangible sophistication, at ease, more relaxed, raw and down-to-earth, without losing anything from the perfectionism of a Calvin Klein piece of clothing.
Co. It’s the second season in a row I choose their collection as part of my fashion week round-ups. The knitwear was more than simple cosy clothing for the cold season. It looked luxurious, moody and romantic, exactly the type of sweater or cardigan I’d like to wrap myself in in the middle of winter and still feel chic. The association with leather and burgundy suede pumps, my other two favourite elements here, adds even more richness to a practical autumnal look.
Although you may not say so at first sight, I can never resist a beautiful dress and there were quite a few that got my attention at NYFW, like the grey wool dress (love the unconventional fabric for an evening gown) at Ralph Lauren, or the delicate, cut below the knee little black dresses at Monique Lhuilier.
I really fell for this hand-woven Altuzarra dress below. I love its edginess, pockets and close fit. In fact, I liked much of the Altuzarra collection, the fine attention to detail, craft and luxury that went into the sheath dresses with inserts of fuchsia and orange, tapestry pieces, slit cut dresses paired with shearling coats and long boots, and cashmere wrap coats. The coats: there was a variety of beautiful coats on the NY runways, very classic, very simple, of different lengths and colours, from the timeless beige and white, to pastel blue and royal blue.
And now, if I review all the looks I shared here, I realize there is not one single trouser outfit. And I believe that’s a first when it comes to NYFW, where the casual styles and feminine-meets-masculine aesthetics are usually the ones that catch my eye. All I can say is that I embrace this change.
all photos via Style.com, Vogue.com / 17-Ann Street Studio (Ralph Lauren) / 20-Ann Street Studio (Monique Lhuillier) | 1-7: Hugo Boss | 8-13: Calvin Klein | 14-16: Co | 18-Peter Som | 19,25-Michael Kors | 21-24-Altuzarra | 26-Wes Gordon | 27-BCBG Max Azria